Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just wondering which oil is better for my R32GTR. Motul 300v Chrono 10w40 or the 4100 turbolight. My cars only mods are exhaust and coilover suspension and will stay this way for a while and running stock boost. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

300V is great oil but probably overkill on a street car (others would beg to differ :dry:)

4100 is only a semi-synthetic, which means it's about 15% synthetic and 85% dino juice.

I would go for the Motul 8100 5W-40 myself, either that or the 300V and do an oil analysis at 5000km to find out what it's like. You would probably find the 300V will last for extended oil change intervals if you're not being hard on it (track work).

For what it's worth, I've read that the 4100 is better for the older motors. It was something about the detergents in the full synthetics cleaning too much of the gunk accumulated in the bores and suffering blow-by as a result.

Also:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458

:D

Considering you have a stock motor, you might aswell go between the two products. The 8100 would do a good job. 300V is overkill and the 4100 is nothing out of the ordinary.

cowie165, thats an old wives tale. Its like saying you should warm your car up for 10 minutes each morning.

i've been using the motul 4100 10w40 for a while, no complaints here. Though i'm thinking of moving to a higher weight 10w50 or something, so might give mobil1 a shot.

hard to compare 4100 to 300v chrono, because the 300v is more than double the price or something...

I found this link ...Although it dosent relate totaly to motul its very interesting the differences between the ratings ...

Maybe we all should be running Diesel Synthets :)

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...