Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am looking for aftermarket ECU to control ECR33 after boost-up. I think that best option is PowerFC but it is strange for me that there is only one model of PFC for all ECR33s. As far as i know S1 and S2 have different not compatible ECUs -- why there is only one type of PFC?

The second problem is different crank angle sensors -- i have the latest "hitachi" (black, plastic case) sensor also used in NEO engines. I`m not sure PFC can work with this sensor.

The last problem is that my car is 4wd and i will definately have the same problem as those A-LSD featured ECR33s as control systems are identical, but there is a solution by paulr33 in DIY section.

Maybe there is Series 2 ECR33s with NEO crank sensor running with the Power FC? Is it possible?

Thank you in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125736-powerfc-compatibility-questions/
Share on other sites

series 1 and 2 ecu's have different mappings but the rest is the same.

the 4wd drive system isnt controlled by the ecu so it works fine. we've seen normal powerfcs work on a GTS4 with no problems or wire changes. if the stock ecu is working with a different crank angle sensor then the powerfc will be the same and have no problems

  • 5 months later...

about 4wd + pfc -- it is not compatible. i checked this :D.

It is not very simple to dignose: When you install pfc 4wd warning light comes out as always. But after 30 min of driving i noticed that the car drives uncomfortably. The worse case -- while parking or slow big angle turns -- car feels to drive very hard. While parking (big angle slow turn) when i push the clutch -- car stops immediately (especially on reverse).

That means that attesa is always locked with pfc it is full time 4wd without central differential.

I checked why it is so. Stock ecu (i have rare one for A-LSD ecr33) mirrors TPS signal to attesa from pin 56. PowerFC has constant 4.5v on that pin. So my attesa thinks my right foot is nailed to the floor and predictibly locks the torque 50/50.

We already made a special electronic scheme to mirror TPS voltage to the e-ts controller outside of ecu. I will take it to the road testing on Friday. This will allow to fix a power fc incompatibility with a-lsd or 4wd. This will allow to use any 2wd ecu in such vehicles.

2paulr33: i tried to use your way of fixing this from DIY section -- and found that it is incorrect. i will pm you details.

please let me know if its wrong

i still have the TPS hack applied to my wiring loom and it works fine

doesn't miss a beat and ALSD never fails like it used to

i dont see why it would be different, but certainly possible

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...