Jump to content
SAU Community

Uprages To R31 4drs. How'd You Do It?

qikstagea
 Share

Recommended Posts

qikstagea Mentor

qikstagea

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.

First time posting in this particular forum - been told we speak a different language in the stagea forums so bear with me.

Im looking to upgrade the R31 sitting in my garage. Was a 31 silhouette. (still is).

Ive ben told you can use s13 control arms and steering, as well as coilovers to suit s13s. Do r32 parts fit, even?

What other later model steering/suspension components can you transplant to update the handling of a 31?

The car has the RB30DE in it, which is either going to get a VL turbo kit, or just a whole new engine. (probably a cheaper option.)

Would appreciate it if you could sling me some ideas.

Note - this car will not be registered, will be something to practise drifting, so that when i clean something up i can fix it easy enough.

Also if anyone is SELLING a 31, let me know, cos id love to have another one. 5spd a must. Thank you!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125844-uprages-to-r31-4drs-howd-you-do-it/
Share on other sites
someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

If you have a DE then sell it to me - I'll exchange my rb30e for it. Noisy lifters and leaky cover but otherwise seems ok and put out a healthy 101rwkw on the dyno my cefiro put out 180rwkw on :P

s13 lower control arms, hubs, rotors, calipers, brake lines and a few bolts (m8 and/or m10, m12 high tensile) and you can do the front.

For the rear if you don't care you can just "bolt in" the coilovers but you'll need to drill new holes in the tray for the coilovers to sit as they have a different bolt pattern. I'm trying to keep my car engineerable so I bought some hats that will allow the coilovers bolt into the stock holes.

You'll also want to get coilovers that are high on a s13, or are adjustable because apperantly at the highest setting it's still low on the r31 so most of the r31 guys, from what I understand, run around on the highest setting.

^^^ I'm just regurgitating from the r31skylineclub and you can check em out there, altho their wiki section is a good start is missing often important but little things :laugh:

I've got all the parts and will probably be adding to the wiki or doing my own tut for SAU when I get around to putting the parts in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • The Bogan
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • GTSBoy
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Shoota_77
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • The Bogan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...