Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A couple of semi-unrelated questions which I have attempted to wrap into one thread for the sake of verbosity.

My car has arrived with the door trims removed and put loose inside the car. The company doing my compliance seems to think think this is a big deal..

So I asked the nice man, why it matters since they have to take the door trims off anyway to weld in the side intrusion bars.

Only he then says: "we dont need to do that on skylines older than 1992".

Can anyone confirm this information? am I paranoid or is he jerking me aboot?

I havent even taken possession of this thing, but my experience living vicariously through mates motors has led me to beleive that everyone who does work on jap performance cars is a bit dodgy - and this seems to contradict advice I have previously received.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12587-compliance-bit-of-an-emergency/
Share on other sites

second of all, does anyone know anything about the ADR / road rego requirements for having a rear brake light installed on the vehicle spoiler.

I would be keen to NOT put back on the original factory spoiler, but have been advised that I will not get it over the pits without it.

I do have a rear wiper, and am wondering whether it would be feasible to remove this and install a back-shelf brake light in it's place.

edit: typo

yeah as jeff said they already have side intrusion bars.

plus, you do need a rear high mount brake light, either on the spoiler or the rear window. We glued one to the rear of my window to pass compliance and the pits, then it came off :P

Shaun

so basically, the majority of the work which would be carried out in a 'service' should already be included in the cost of compliance.

does anyone know of a government/ADR/dotars list of the work which must be carried out during compliance? I have tried to track one down, but Im having trouble getting anything more than:

"this is the work which MAY need to be performed, including.."

The workshop that complianced mine did show me, Phils Mechanical. All fluids should be changed, new air filter element, spark plugs if necesary, light bulbs in some cases, seat belts, child restraints in the rear, new tyres on all corners, etc etc etc... There are many many points that need to be addressed. Plus the workshop should make sure the car is mechanically sound and test drive the vehicle. Mine had a rooted drivetrain when it came in, it vibrated badly at 60-100km's, they first thought it was the wheels and did an alignment, didnt fix it so they pulled the drivetrain out and all 3 unijoints needed to be machined and replaced, ended up costing me another $360 ($120/joint inc labour). But the car drives smoothly up to 200km/hr... dont think I've been much beyond that and dont want to either :(

yeah, that's right cam.

I was quoted $x for compliance, with tyres being additional, and now Im being asked to pay for additional works which Im not sure should actually be additionals at all. Hence I just wanted to know what it is that should have been included in "compliance".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...