Drift Setup

[salad]

from friction point to fully engaged the stroke is really short for button clutches. a bit of a pain to drive on the street.

get a ceramic cushioned button, much more drivable and still grip really well compared to an organic. only a little less grippy than a solid button

[Flash89]

reckon my car should be ok with stock suspension, car has been lowered. just get some strut braces??

As for the seat i am wanting recliners, and i am looking at sparco at the moment. just something about em i like.

Guess i will be keeping the stockies for a while till i get the hang off it

[Laurence]

Just FYI some info on D1 rear suspension settings from a recent Drift Tengoku magazine

Name - Car - camber - toe in

Youichi Imamura 350Z -1.5deg 1mm

Kazuhiro Tanaka WRX -2.0deg 2mm

Atsushi Kuroi S13 -0.5deg 2mm

Tsuyoshi Tezuka R32 -1.0deg 4mm

Masao Suenaga RX7 -1.5deg 2.6mm

Takahiro Ueno Soarer -2.0mm -5mm

The only guy running toe OUT was

Tatsuya Sakuma S15 -1.5deg 2.6mm OUT

and last, but most importantly

Yasuyuki Kazama -2deg 0mm

[Flash89]

this toe in and toe out stuff, does that have to do with the steering??

[Laurence]

Yes or no, depending on what you mean.

But the numbers I quoted are for the rear which has nothing to do with the steering per se

It does change the way the car steers though...　

Anyway just some numbers that may be of use to someone.

[Flash89]

well i have decided that i will be starting off with my suspension, what should i be looking for

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

Just FYI some info on D1 rear suspension settings from a recent Drift Tengoku magazine

Name - Car - camber - toe in

Youichi Imamura 350Z -1.5deg 1mm

Kazuhiro Tanaka WRX -2.0deg 2mm

Atsushi Kuroi S13 -0.5deg 2mm

Tsuyoshi Tezuka R32 -1.0deg 4mm

Masao Suenaga RX7 -1.5deg 2.6mm

Takahiro Ueno Soarer -2.0mm -5mm

The only guy running toe OUT was

Tatsuya Sakuma S15 -1.5deg 2.6mm OUT

and last, but most importantly

Yasuyuki Kazama -2deg 0mm

what d1 drivers are using is all well and good. But. Toe on the front works like this

-Toe in = better high speed stability

-Toe out = better turn in / cornering

Beginners will benefit from running a bit of toe out, but once you start drifting at higher speeds (ie. Top of 3rd gear) you will be wanting some toe in.

I would suggest you experiment with it a bit, see what feels better and go from there. I run -1.5deg camber, 2mm toe out

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

well i have decided that i will be starting off with my suspension, what should i be looking for

good plan, alot of aussie drifters tend to overlook suspension mods and go straight for power. A 100rwkw car can drift well with a good suspension setup!! but a 400kw car with stock suspension and diff will suck balls!!

I haven't re-read the whole thread but i might be repeating things here.

Most important thing is a Diff, not technically suspension, but make sure you have an aftermarket LSD, or get your diff welded (cheap option, works just as well as a 2-way). The stock viscous will not hold up for drift and you will learn slower

suspension wise......

I recommend grab a set of jap coilovers, plenty for sale these days with everyone going for the suspension group buy, and for the price ~$500-$1000 for a good set of second hand you can't go past it for purely drift. They are a little hard on the road, but most people just put up with it.

Also grab some adjustable castor rods

Then get a wheel alignment, run as much castor (+8-9degrees) as you can

[Flash89]

what does welding the diff mean anyways, how does it effect just normal street driving

[Rolls]

what does welding the diff mean anyways, how does it effect just normal street driving

You weld the spider gears together (read on www.howstuffworks.com what these are).

This basically means each wheel will always spin the same speed, when cornering the inside wheel has to turn less then the outside wheel, so basically the inside one will lock or the outside wheel will have to spin. Basically it means you'll go sideways all day long.

Normal street driving itll be a pain in the ass, tight u turns will just make the car understeer and be impossible unless you get the wheels spinning slightly. Hard turns will give the car a tendancy to understeer unless you power on and then it will oversteer. Car parks will be alot of chirping and noise.

Basically if its a daily driver it wont be much fun unless you like to get sideways everywhere. Wet weather driving will be even more fun/dangerous.

For drifting its pretty awesome for the cost compared to a 1.5/2 way mechanical LSD/locker

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

Locked diff's are almost exactly the same as a new/tight 2-way...

They do affect turn-in so you will understeer a bit, but i've driven on twisties with a locked diff and haven't had to resort to going sideways around every corner. Same thing happens with a tight 2-way...

Tight turns aren't a problem either... no worse than a 2-way

people have this misconception that as soon as you go around a corner with a locker at any speed above snail pace, it's just going to automatically come out... This only happens if you drive too fast. Wet weather isn't a problem in my opinion..... no worse than a 2-way......

the advantage of a 2-way, is that they will last longer, and they will un-lock when you clutch-in. Some of the worn 2-ways i've seen are less agressive, and some allow you to adjust the preload, but the brand new kaaz and cusco mech diff's i've seen have been almost exactly the same as a locker...

value for money wise, welding a diff has to be the best cheapo drift mod ever!!

[Flash89]

looking at tein coil overs, can anyone give me any info on what they are like just normal driving on the streets, like with the little bumps on the road, stiffness etc.

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

most tiens are rock solid, there was someone who posted in this section a few days ago who has tried the Australian version (Tien Super Street) and was very happy with the results for comfort.

[4DoorWhore]

payed $175 for a pair of front Teins on yahoo.jp they came with 12k springs im very happy. they ride great on the street and even better on the touge.

i do have a 26.5mm sway on the front also, and 10k's on the rear.

but yeah the teins are super..

Edited August 22, 2006 by 4DoorWhore

[Flash89]

what you mean about 12k and 10k

[salad]

theyre spring rates...

very very high spring rates...

most would say too high

[DJRIFT]

just thought id enter in now as i am slowly biulding up my street drifter aswell.

a few points id like to make are:

12k and 10k rateings are way to high for road use it would be like riding on the bump stops. 8k and 6k would be my choice for road and track. on down side to such igh spring rates is that these are not very friendly to the cars chassie. expect cracks and fubar bushes ect.

if you get coilovers consider keeping your old shocks and springs as you could change between the tow so you have a decent ride on the street and good drift settings on the track. this has the advantage of being able to buy cheap buggered coilovers for the track and not haveing to pay full price for them. what i will probably do as it isnt hard to swap supension around. 1 hour and it would be done.

LSD diffs are realy good but pricy. the standar viscus wont last long but you have the option of re-shiming it once it dies. if you can do it yourself shims cots like $20 each from nissan and some new diff oil. this will be just like a new lsd or weldy but will slowly ware out and you will have to do it again. if you decide to go a weldy buy yourself another shagged diff and weld it up. take it in and out when you want to use it just like the coilovers.

hope that helps

my coment on camber is i cant belive they dont run more. looks like they do.

[D-limo]

Mate spend a few hours seaching and you will find all the nfo you need on a basic drift setup..

But I'll melt it down for you. If I was in your position I would be looking at these mods in order.

-Diff

It is possible to have your stock LSD 'shimmed'. This tightens the feel of the diff. Downside is the diff will usualy only last 1 maybe 2yrs after that if it dosen't cop too much abuse. Cost is around $250-$300

Better option in my opinion is a low km aftermarket 2-way. Expect to pay $750-$900 for one of these.

-Coilovers

I prefer the usual jap brands to the cheaper ones floating around. Some people say they are getting good results with the new cheaper stuff like HSD etc. New for the price I reckon its hard to go past Racing Logics. Around $1600 a set. If you are looking at 2nd hand be sure to find some in good condition, or factor in $150 odd per corner for a rebuild.

Spring rates look at either front 8k, rear 6k or front 9k, rear 7k for a daily driven car.

-Castor rods, Rear camber arms, and subframe bushes.

Simple pieces of gear, generic will do fine. Prob $500ish all up

Also a simple round steering wheel will be helpful along with a supportive seat.

Have a look on Secretdrift.com in the tech section.. Heap of good info in there.

[4DoorWhore]

yeah id recomend 8k 6k if your a daily driver kind of person. But we are talking about drift setups here right? the 12k 10k feel great street and track, but then again japans streets are like the tracks so take that into part.

as for body wear, that is true, but polyurethane or solid bushings, maybe a roll-cage and stitch welding down the line and your set.