Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it could be that you have a slight vacuum leak and the vacuum isn't as strong to pull the bov open as much.

where do you have the wastegate line coming from? is it off the bov hose? if it is then that may be the cause of it. could either be the extra air in the line, or the restriction of the 'T' piece. if you don't have the wastegate hooked from the bov line then it buggers me.

I thought the flutter noise was the wastegate opening and closing really fast?

also, i didnt think that the standards turbo were big enough to get compressor surge?

Sorry but thats complete bollucks. What has happened is the bov is too tight/not big enough and its not opening or only partially opening letting only some of the built up pressure out. The rest of it goes back through the compressor and gets chopped up making that flutter noise. Now that you can installed a big front mount the noise is amplified so you can hear it much easier. The noise is coming out of your pod filter not the bov.

If you were to run absolutely no bov at all this is what you would hear. Try loosening the bov off a bit or you can or get a bigger one.

Theres some good discussion in here about running no bov to get the sound always.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=flutter

I've heard 2 types of what could be considered a flutter.

When you jump off the throttle at part boost levels and you hear a flutter due to a bov thats too tight. May very well be the case here as you are only running 8psi. :(

Under full throttle/boost acceleration the bov isn't tight enough and begins to make a fluttering noise. I've seen the last on a dyno but it was pushing over 20psi.

guys,

that flutter noise is from air filter not BOV. as the air pressure cannot be realsed from BOV it comes out from the air filter, which i heard is not healthy for your turbo according to the rep from turbosmart. so most of the 200sx which has got loud flutter noise might sound cool but not healthy for their car.

fluttering under very liht load/acceleration is normal, and shouldnt do any harm, if its wen u jump off the throttle while making alot of boost and it still does it, you need to reduce preload on the spring as its too tight, and as has been said its the air going back through the turbo that makes the fluttering noise, and as well as causing compressor surge, it will also shorten the life of your turbo, or so i've been taught.

when the pressure builds up and has nowhere to go (blow off valve not setup right/not working/no blow off valve) and it makes its way back through the compressor, its will either momentarily stop/slow the compressor while the build up or air escapes, but the shaft is still trying to twist the compressor at 100-200,000rpm, and this happens 5, 10, or 20 times, every time u let off the throttle.

the other possibility is that the compressor will keep spinning at speed, but actually be forced backwards into the turbo (not necesarily causing contact) so the air can escape infront of it.

and now im going to make myself look really stupid, and tell that yes, i actually like the fluttering sound too, especially on VLs. A stock VL turbo, with a massive cooler, and no blow-off valve. love it!

the other possibility is that the compressor will keep spinning at speed, but actually be forced backwards into the turbo (not necesarily causing contact) so the air can escape infront of it.

LOL

Guys do you just make up shit for fun, the compressor spinning backwards? c'mon if you dont know anything about it dont say anything, all it does is propogate misinformation.

The air will just escape between the blades slowling minimally, thats why it makes the chopping flutter sound, if it stopped the compressor completely or pushed it backwards or whatever it would sound just like a bov cause the air wouldnt be getting chopped up.

The flutter does sound fully sick though, my stock redtop rb20det R31 fluttered like crazy, they came out stock with no bov.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
×
×
  • Create New...