How To: Replacing That Clutch Master Cylinder

[SuAvE-1]

Here's my input to the archives after taking so, so much...

CAR: 1990 R32 GTS-t

PARTS REQUIRED:

1x clutch master cylinder assy. I bought mine from Kudos Motors Sorts as Genuine Nissan Part.

1x bottle of mineral brake (and clutch) fluid. Do not use Synthetic stuff as I’ve heard it destroys the seals in the master cylinder, making the whole problem occur again. I used Penrite brake fluid. Good stuff.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

12mm and 10mm spanners

Small to medium sized adjustable shifter

12mm socket and ratchet

Pliers

Bucket/Oil pan

Jack and chocking/support bricks/ramps

Optional: large spring assisted pliers (not sure what it is actually called).

Time - give yourself about 2 hours if you haven't done it before

Difficulty - Perfect for the DIY'er. about a 5/10. Keep in mind that if you stuff it up, you're not going to be able to move your car. Hence, leave your car in a position where it can be towed easily or that your not blocking the drive way off!

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Step 1 - Drain the fluid from the master cylinder. Jack the car up from the driver’s side. Look underneath the car to find the clutch slave cylinder. There will be a bleed valve there identical to the one on the clutch master. Use your adjustable shifter to undo the bolt enough until fluid comes out. Collect it in your pan. After it has stopped dripping, push and pull the clutch in and out a couple of times just to make sure the old fluid is out. The clutch pedal will hit the floor so don't panic. Lower the can back down, but not completely off the jack, just enough for the tires to be firmly on the ground.

Step 2 - Push the driver’s seat back (or take it out if you are not flexible enough). Look upwards at the clutch pedal to find a bolt and pin. This attaches the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Rotate the pin around until as much of it shows clear of the pedal so you can get your pliers and yank it off. It won't give you too much trouble. Then slide the bolt out (horizontally). This will free the clutch pedal from the master cylinder.

Step 3 - There are two bolts attaching the master cylinder to the firewall. Use your 12mm tools to get these off. I found removing the pipe leading to the AAC valve will allow some manoeuvring space for your hands.

Step 4 - attempt to remove the steel pipe leading from the clutch master downwards. I was unable to use my 10mm spanner effectively as it would just round. If you can get it off, skip step 5 and 6.

Step 5 - Back underneath the car with your 10mm spanner. Find the steel line which leads from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It leads to a conjunction box which is flimsily mounted to the car. The pipe should end on the side of the rear of the car, facing forward. Undo this bolt which attaches the line to the box and move the line out and around the other return line which is present there.

At this point you will be able to remove the master unit from the car with a bit of manoeuvring for the line. Do not allow the steel pipe to bend, with the right bending and a bit of patience, it will be removed easily.

Step 6 – take your spring assisted pliers (or anything with enough clamping force) and clamp the 10mm bolt. Use the body of the master cylinder to free the steel line. After freeing the line, carefully place the line back in its position within and around the other lines of the car. Do not force it, the line must go around the speedo cable and other things properly, and it will. Bolt it back up to the flimsily box near the clutch slave cylinder.

CAUTION: brake/clutch fluid is extremely deadly for paint. Watch out when you remove the line, because there will be some left over in that line.

Step 7: Almost there. After the steel line is back in place, manoeuvre the new clutch master cylinder in place of the old one. Attempt to connect the steel line back up to it. I found this too difficult to do as the angle needed to be perfect, so I removed the steel line back off, connected it to the master cylinder and then put the whole lot back in as a whole.

Step 8: Bolt the 12mm bolts back up and then connect the clutch pedal to the new master cylinder. That pin can just be pushed back on by hand.

Step 9: Jack the car back up and get underneath it. Use your shifter to tighten up the drain bolt back up. Add new brake fluid to the cylinder. Watch some of the Air escape. Make sure all connections are tight and not leaking.

Step 10: The Bleeding Process. This is the final step and if you’ve come this far, the hard part is definitely over. Throughout this process, you will have to gradually add fluid to the master cylinder. Do not let the level of fluid sink lower than ¾ of the level in the chamber.

After adding the initial fluid and observing some air escape, go back down underneath the car to the slave cylinder valve, open it, you should see air bubbles escaping followed by the new fluid, allow this to run briefly so that any old fluid can escape. Tighten up the slave cylinder again, then top up the fluid in the master.

Open the bleed valve on the master cylinder now and allow fluid to escape from there too. Tighten it up. Top up the fluid once more if you have to. Now all connections should be tight. Push the clutch pedal in and out with your hand 3 or 4 times and then go back underneath the car and open up the slave cylinder again, allow fluid to escape and then close. Repeat this process another 2 times. Always make sure you have enough fluid in the master cylinder.

That’s it. Congratulations.

If anyone thinks I have left something out, post it up and i might amend the write up. There may be better ways of doing things, but this is what I did yesterday, and now my clutch feels excellent. I might try and do some pictures if people tell me they need them.

Edited July 26, 2006 by SuAvE-1

[Rossman]

im aware this was posted ages ago but nice work mate!

thanks a million, your a life saver. gonn do this 2morrow>

cheers

- ROss

[RipNGrip]

bleed procedure - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...amp;hl=bleeding

[meet07]

when is this needed?? When there is a sign of leakage??

[XxNinjaxX]

when is this needed?? When there is a sign of leakage??

when you clutch in to change up/down a gear, you hear a noise followed by your clutch pedal hitting the floor your ability to select gears goes out the window and your stuck in some random area. -.- just experienced this earlier today. bunny hopped it in gear to get it going and 1st geared it all the way home

[Sarumatix]

Is anyone aware of the differences between this and a gt-r install? In particular I have an R32 early gt-r gearbox with a gts-4 master. What replacement would be the best option?