Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all,

Im bored of 405rwhp and im dont exactly have alot of turbo knowledge.

At the moment i have an r33 '98 n1 engine with the following mods:

n1 turbos

pfc

full exhaust minus dumps

fmic

ebc

cam gears

and the usual crap

pod

bov

i cant remember what else i have..

anyway

for what i have i think the boost seems a little laggy

but im not sure wether to go big single or twin

i just dont want the lag any worse than it is now

dyno attached.

Cheers

Brendan

post-1149-1152929252.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126186-time-to-think-about-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Gday all,

Im bored of 405rwhp and im dont exactly have alot of turbo knowledge.

At the moment i have an r33 '98 n1 engine with the following mods:

n1 turbos

pfc

full exhaust minus dumps

fmic

ebc

cam gears

and the usual crap

pod

bov

i cant remember what else i have..

anyway

for what i have i think the boost seems a little laggy

but im not sure wether to go big single or twin

i just dont want the lag any worse than it is now

dyno attached.

Cheers

Brendan

I know what you mean..

I wish my car took off at the lights at good velocity without thrashing the thing..or sounding like I am.

Nothing beats the slight pedal you need to launch a v8,and nothing beats the force of twin turbos

Lag sucks.

Anyway, if you want to spend some money, get some HKS cams.

HKS 2.8L Stroker kit.

HKS gt-rs Turbos(400psi each)You did say you had a GTR

HKS Stainless dumps(or mild steel)

700cc Sard injectors

Nismo( oil, water,petrol) pumps

Tune it with a APEXIfc D-getro unit...removing the afm's

Oh make sure you upgrade your brakes.... :(

You will have instant response ,plenty in the middle and :) at the top

I think what happens is the larger the motor the less lag you get, and the less restrictions you have on the airflow,

the better you can tune your lag..

Your using the older N1's... thats why it doesnt feel so good.

R34 N1s or GT-SS will come on way way earlier than your current ones, and will make the same, if not a tad more peak power.

With such a meatier mid-range you wont know the difference in the car.

Failing that go a little bigger to 2530's or thier Garrett equivalent.

Your using the older N1's... thats why it doesnt feel so good.

R34 N1s or GT-SS will come on way way earlier than your current ones, and will make the same, if not a tad more peak power.

With such a meatier mid-range you wont know the difference in the car.

Failing that go a little bigger to 2530's or thier Garrett equivalent.

Hello Nismoid,

A funny thing happened the other day, my daughter aged 7 asked what you were doing with your hand under the table.

My comment "He has an itch so his just scraching "

Anyway Brendon back to the topic......Nismoid are you saying the hks2530's are bigger and have less lag than

N1GTR34 new type turbos.........and is the corresponding turbo in the Garrett GT2860R -5 to the HKS?

My interests are the same as Brendon.......

If it wasn't for the money the convertion for Brendon would have been excellent........I have ordered the GT2860R -5 for my gtr

Keep my fingers crossed on the response levels and the increase in power

II think what happens is the larger the motor the less lag you get

The bigger the displacement the more exhaust gas you will have at x revs, hence it will spool the exhaust wheel up faster creating boost faster. But also the bigger the motor the more of a restriction the rear exhaust wheel will create so you need to adjust this to suit.

A funny thing happened the other day, my daughter aged 7 asked what you were doing with your hand under the table.

My comment "He has an itch so his just scraching "

:)

Nismoid are you saying the hks2530's are bigger and have less lag than

N1GTR34 new type turbos.........and is the corresponding turbo in the Garrett GT2860R -5 to the HKS?

No, i said the R34 N1's & GT-SS are very similar, in the same rear housing.

The HKS 2530's are bigger, but the come on later than R34 N1's/GT-SS and make more power.

Brendan needs to decide if he wants bliztering response and similar power, or the same response now, with more power

Why don't you take a step back on turbo size and change your powerful GTR into a response monster GTR. Sacrifice some peak power to spread it through the rev range and earlier spool. Just a suggestion.

I would imagine it would be a totally different animal to drive! Through a friend of mine, I get to drive some really well prep'd cars and I absolutely love responsive cars rather than the huge horsepower cars as they feel faster and much more enjoyable to toy around in! But i'm not a straight line man, I like curves.

That was some good reading....and i am corrected on the topic of comparing GT to HKS :D

The GT2860-9 in the Garrett are close to hks gt-ss at 320hp each

The GT2860-5 in the Garrett are close to hks 2530 at 350hp each

and GT2860-10 in the Garrett are close to hks gt-rs at 400hp each

and the GT2860-7 in Garrett are close to the 34N1 at 300hp each

This answers everything now......

The two that spool up the fastest are the gtss and 34N1 320hp and 300hp respectively

These both are lower in horse-power thus spoll quicker and seem like a better ride

The GT2860-5 are the best choice if you have modes to support the horses

and the GT-rs are fantastic for Horse power junkies who want whip-lash

:P

So the answer,(Brendon) if you want to go twin turbo with your modes would be the -5 or 2530's(700hp)

This way you can build the engine, still adding modes and the turbos will not have to be changed

i think you guys missed something aswell

before jumping to the conclusion of changing turbo's

upgrade your dump pipes they will certainly be holding back some spool time and i'd also imagine a bit of topend flow aswell.. im quite suprised they hadnt been done yet anyway...

cams?

I agree, as I suggested to Brendon the ultimate upgrade........but hey we all have budgets....

He is only looking for an upgrade for his Turbos at the moment.........and deciding 2 or single.

There has been no response yet on the single and the cost of the convertion....

I think its because most single convertions.....correct me if I am wrong.....are for drag purposes

and the boost does not come on till 4000rpm making it a very slugish driving it daily.

Hope I have been some help to this thread....good luck with your choice Brendon

I think its because most single convertions.....correct me if I am wrong.....are for drag purposes

and the boost does not come on till 4000rpm making it a very slugish driving it daily.

He doesnt see boost till 5200rpm with his current setup, I think 4k would be a great improvement.

He doesnt see boost till 5200rpm with his current setup, I think 4k would be a great improvement.

cheers for all the replys so far

yes its an r34 gt-t with an n1 engine

its used for daily driving, but i would like a bit more power and alot better response.

im not really up to touching internals and since its an n1 it should be able to take a bit more still.

stuff like cams, dump pipes, turbos was what i had in mind to upgrade.

but finding suitable turbo(s) is what im after ;)

hmm... If you are happy with the power, and just want it a LOT earlier, then its R34 N1's or GT-SS in my book.

The power is extremely linear in delivery and good for a RWD car (hence its the same setup i am option for with mt RWD/RB26)

Un-cam'd RB26's ive seen get around 300-330rwkw with just a cam gear + GT-SS (or garrett equivalent)

Numbers vary between dyno's of course.

I would suggest dumps with the GT-SS... cam gear and your well on your way to super response

i was thinking overall cost.. sure r34 n1's would be better.. but i'd rather change the dump pipes first sure not holding it back 1500rpm.. but still holding it back.. and well sure it shows power can be made with stock dumps.. how ever its also been proven that people make better power all over the shock with a good set of dumps.. the power appears to be very smooth for a rwd setup which is wat i'd want in a rwd car either way he should be upgrading the dumps to get the best out of any turbo either way.. not my car not my money

Anything before R34 N'1's is overall not good response, a simple search would tell you that.

The dumps are holding it back, yes, but a good 1500rpm, no.

I wonder why they are spooling up so late?

I think maybe the Tuner set this up for maximum power at the top RPM range

I would of had it tuned for a more responsive ,progressive curve where there is some boost

at 3k to 5k RPM. Who really uses a street car up at 7k anyway?

Sure change the dumps to HKS but also change the tune to road use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...