Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have until recently always had wrx's. I always run a knocklink on my engine. There have been many cases when I have filled up on optimax that my knocklink has indicated detonation. I used to not care too much about what fuel i was using except that it had to be 98 RON. After making a decision about 9 months ago not to use optimax again I ahve never had a problem with detonation, or atleast the knocklink didnt pick it up.

In short I think BP make an equal product to Optimax but they make it consistantly where shell dont.

I reckon BP Ultimate or Mobil 8000 (purple) is the goods. That has just been by hearsay but only good thing about Shell that i have herd is that it gets you more km's to the litre, but its through all additives which can cause greater knock. Thats just what ive herd so by no means take it as fact.

I'm not a fan of optimax, I tried it once or twice, neither of the 2 engines I've used it on liked it very much.

Nowadays I use Ultimate only but Mobil Synergy seems to be pretty decent stuff as well.

Word Of Mouth & Testing Fact.

Shell has alot of cleaning agents added too the mix. These additives make the engine poor poorly, but cleans your engines.

I had too have my fuel tested one day, I was using Shell, the tester commented that the optimax fuel tends too have lower oxygen rating, and for performance, mobil or bp where perferred.

Caltex Vortex isn't a bad mix either.

previously i had never really thought there was much difference between the 98ron fuels. however in my new gtr I have consistantly noticed the car doesnt run as well on optimax. initially i thought it was just a bad batch of fuel however i have nismo boost dials which consistantly dont peak as high when using optimax as compared to other fuels (vortex,ultimate or even extreme) and the car feels more sluggish on optimax.

Edited by marchGTR
For me:

Optimax is always cheaper but BP ultimate seems to give me better milage!

Since you are in Melbourne, due to refinery sharing they are both made at the Shell refinery at Geelong.

ie; there is no BP refinery in Victoria

:wave: cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Since you are in Melbourne, due to refinery sharing they are both made at the Shell refinery at Geelong.

ie; there is no BP refinery in Victoria

;) cheers ;)

Everyone knows this.

Explain why on multiple occassions Shell reads a lower oxygen rating and slower lap times then other PULP ? I think you might find, and correct me if I'm wrong with proof, that each company also adds there own special mixes too the fuel at the same refinery.

Or... ring a marine shop, and ask them what fuels they suggest you use and WHY.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They've had some weird failures on their brake actuators. One of them was because they added some kind of lubricant to the factory fill brake fluid that aftermarket brake fluid didn't have so it would affect the seals. Another was just mysterious, probably internal corrosion or something eating away at Prius brake actuators. Parts alone for those are a few thousand USD so not a cheap fix.
    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
×
×
  • Create New...