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Hi i was under my stag today checking how to pull out the front drive shaft as its going for a dyno check tomorrow, and to me it looks like if the the tranny seals on shaft and if its removed the atf is going to piss out of box. So i was wondering has anyone actually removed their front shaft to prove me wrong

Hi i was under my stag today checking how to pull out the front drive shaft as its going for a dyno check tomorrow, and to me it looks like if the the tranny seals on shaft and if its removed the atf is going to piss out of box. So i was wondering has anyone actually removed their front shaft to prove me wrong

hey mate u can pull it out and oil wont come out of the box as its totally sealed inside where the shaft goes into the transfer case.

all u need is 2 x 12mm spanners im pretty sure to get it off. just remove the 4 bolts from the sump end of the shaft and slide it out the transfer case and its done :banana:

i been running around in 2wd without the shaft in for ages now without a problem and i know 100% that its sealed in the transfer case shaft hole :) even a big workshop told me it wasnt sealed until i checked and it infact is a sealed unit as we have had the transfer case stripped down in our garage into about 20 pieces checking the clutch packs.

hope it makes sense mate

Brad

I've had mine out for a couple of weeks with no probs at all. I found I had to loosen off a cable going to the auto that real close to the shaft to get it out. And I found the nuts on the flange at the front were real tight, you need reasonable access and good spanners or you might round them off.

I covered up the hole in the gearbox with duct tape so no road grime got in there. Tape hadn't moved after a few weeks. Pretty easy to get overly loose in rwd mode if the auto kicks down mid-corner and you weren't ready...... :banana:

Left the removal of the shaft to daltons, decided it was to hard to do it at home. when he put it up on the hoist he was straight back to tell me that he if pulls it out oil will piss out he also took a bit of coaxing to try it, but it worked and and now its a 2 wheel drive till i get the uni replaced or a replacement shaft its stuffed unfortunately :wave:

on this topic... not that anyone would, but could you remove the rear driveshaft and make a front wheel drive?

no u couldnt as its not fulltime 4wd like a wrx so its rwd 99% of the time. and the transfer case clutches are tiny and only made to work for minimal amounts of time before they will burn out.

why would u want to anyways? :whistling:

cheers

Brad

Left the removal of the shaft to daltons, decided it was to hard to do it at home. when he put it up on the hoist he was straight back to tell me that he if pulls it out oil will piss out he also took a bit of coaxing to try it, but it worked and and now its a 2 wheel drive till i get the uni replaced or a replacement shaft its stuffed unfortunately :P

Nice work Darrin, good to see you are educating Dalton's on working with Stagea's. I am in Aireys Inlet and would be going to Dalton's for anything dyno related, so how did it go, what did they do and how much did they charge you?

I dropped in there when I first got mine and asked them about what turned out to be a turbo manifold gasket and they were right on the money and very approachable.

Cheers

Luke

Hi Only really went on the dyno to check the air fuel ratio, just was expecting about 120rwk. We both ended up with a big shock when the first 2 runs produced 148rwk then 149rwk with the afr 14.5 dropping to about 12.5 on boost.

After a chat he went and checked the dyno was set correct and did a 3rd run which came to a total of 152.8rwk on stock boost and as far as i know stock engine pretty happy with that, but now trying to find out why.

definatly happy with chris dalton hes a rotary fan, but knows his way around the skylines, shaft removal and 3 dyno runs $99 pity he didnt find any faults though, hoping for a cure for the petrol blues.

Nice power figures (every dyno is different before the knockers come knocking, we all know that!)

I'd say your fuel usage might have something to do with the amount of power it is making... But yes the question is why is it making that much? You find out what the deal is let us know ok? Any mods?

Cheers

Luke

hi luke The only mod its got that i know of is the little air freshener that my misses stuck on the center air vent

must say its nice to see there is another stagea owner down this way id recommend daltons at least he nows what they look like and how to pull the shaft out thats more than any of the others

If your AF is really 12.5 on boost, even standard boost, then its a lot leaner than factory, which would go some way to explaining the power. I'm sure you'd notice if it had a interceptor, so maybe its got a chipped ECU? Someone could have fitted a generic lean-out/advance chip, they're pretty common for popular engines like RB25det in NZ anyway. I'm under the impression for a bit of a 'general' tune the chip guys can do not a bad job.

It'd work, but of course you'd get richer running across all loads and revs which is a bit of a compromise. For the cost of a adjustable fuel regulator you can pretty much buy the Jaycar digital fuel adjuster and hand controller and get lots of adjustment, and just where you need it. Although with standard boost, and premium fuel, I'd have thought 12.5:1 would be a good ratio? Maybe not on a 30deg day I guess.

nice figures mate!!

just a question tho how do RWKW's compare to AWKW's? .. was just reading Alex's post on the GCG group buy and he mentioned he got 160AWKW with the hi-flow (untuned) compared to the 115-120AWKW's standard. Compared with your 150RWKW fully stock (minus the air freshener :D .

Does anyone have a formula or anything?

Edited by STAGE-A

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