Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the size i carnt quite rember ,but not that big aroung the 215-220 as a rule but does vary and the stock afm runs out at around the same ,so you need a higher resoulution one ie, z32 but you will need a pfc or some form of piggy back setup ie.safc to run the afm, what are you wanting to do with the car and what is alredy done to it, and power goal.

Edited by gtstcoupe

If i'm not wrong it'll be about 140ish rwkw stock as i saw my mate's GTT with just pod and full exhaust ran a 160ish rwkw on the dyno.

Stock injectors will definitely support 200rwkw. It'll be JUST right. Yes with stock AFM as well. Any higher than that, you might consider changing.

I said this in another topic but may be of interest in here as well.

For the reference also the R34 RB25 Neo injectors are top feed high impedence 370cc.

Unsure if you remember or not but on the High Performance Imports DVD's they did a skyline dyno with different mods on an R34GTT.

This engine has higher output compared to R33 model (206kw vs 187kw)

On the Croydon Dyno Dynamics Dyno it pulled the following figures.

1. 100% Stock R34 GTT Car 148rwkw (R33 should be less then this power)

2. 3" Turbo Back Exhaust - 158rwkw (stock cat still)

3. Boost increase to 10psi - 181rwkw (remember R34 has bigger turbine housing)

4. FMIC & 13psi boost - 200rwkw

5. GCG Highflow, 14psi boost + PowerFC - 225rwkw (injectors 100% duty no more boost can be added safely)

Hope that can bring something to convo as well.

So with a GCG highflow along with my PFC and intercooler I could run around 225rwkw with standard injectors, fuel pump, and airflow meter? Do the fuel pump and afm become inadequate around the same time as the injectors?

Edited by Lithius
I said this in another topic but may be of interest in here as well.

For the reference also the R34 RB25 Neo injectors are top feed high impedence 370cc.

I've actually got that DVD with me. The whole process was seperated into 3 parts. They put in the hi-flowed turbo because it blew when they brought their black R34 to the track. Think it's called HPI-34. In the end, the car was running about 260rwkw? or something around that big power region.

Do not run your stock turbo at 14psi ( 1 bar ) for daily driving. :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...