Just Put A K&n Pod On My R33

[faz]

Went and got myself a pod on the weekend and put it on, Its really loud and sounds good but it feels like it doesnt want to pull like it use to, all so i want to get something to keep it from moving atm its just sitting there what can i get made for it??

[racsov500]

do you mean a bracket to hold it still?

[Medium Dave]

Buy or make a heatshield, this will hold it in place and should return the lost power oh and do it soon or the afm plug will break with the vibrations = more headaches...

[faz]

do you mean a bracket to hold it still?

Yes somthing to keep it in place

Buy or make a heatshield, this will hold it in place and should return the lost power oh and do it soon or the afm plug will break with the vibrations = more headaches...

Do you know where i can Buy one from?

[CATKICKER]

I would suggest resetting your ECU as it is getting different air volumes and could do with a reset...

[racsov500]

for an r33 you can probably find a bracket and heat sheild for your pod, but its not hard to make them.

[mad082]

there is very little power loss due to sucking hot air. the pod is sucking more air than the standard air filter so that increases power. you are better off having no heatsheild, as a heat sheild can reduce the amount of air the pod is sucking. heatsheilds make bigger power differences on natro cars, but very little difference on turbo cars as the air is heated the moment it goes through the turbo. and is then cooled by the intercooler, which is where power is lost or gained.

[R33TOM]

i agree with mad082

[mad082]

i agree with mad082

about time someone did. i feel special now, hahaha.

[RANDY]

This also makes a lot of sense to me, but then there are tons of SAUers buying elaborate and expensive pod shields made of titanium and diamonds, and I didn't want to start something buy questioning their motives.

As far as the lack of pulling power goes, that's interesting. If anything, it should give (probably not noticeably) MORE power.

Still, if you want to experiment, grab a thick cardboard box, and cut a hole big enough for the pod pipe to go through. Make the hole in the bottom of the box. Face the box forwards (or 45 degrees, if the pipe is pointing that way) towards the headlight. Duct tape it down securely, then have a few hotlaps to see how it goes. Don't leave it in there for more than just a day of testing... I doubt you could set fire to it, but i'm sure someone will mention something along those lines. =-]

[AzzurrA]

i've seen a similar thing before with my friends S14a 200sx (not wanting to go after installing a pod filter)

are you running more boost than standard?

the reason i ask, is we tracked the problem with his down to the rubber inlet pipe between the AFM and turbo heating up, and getting soft, then with the added restriction (compared to the stock panel filter) of the pod, it was sucking the rubber inlet pipe closed and limiting the airflow, hence limiting power.

[TTT]

there is very little power loss due to sucking hot air. the pod is sucking more air than the standard air filter so that increases power. you are better off having no heatsheild, as a heat sheild can reduce the amount of air the pod is sucking. heatsheilds make bigger power differences on natro cars, but very little difference on turbo cars as the air is heated the moment it goes through the turbo. and is then cooled by the intercooler, which is where power is lost or gained.

Man that is one of your most stupid posts.. and believe me.. you've made a few.

you have no hard evidence of your claims.

just your theory.

then noobs on here believe it and take your word for it.

Unlike you I did a little reasearch and tried and tested this little theory.

R32 gtst rb20det.

pod filter, no shield or box, just a duct from the front bar to the stock intercooler pipe hole which I enlaged to 3 inches..

I bought a Jay car digital temp gauge with probe.

I tested it first with a glass of ice and then a glass of boiling water and it read correct.

I then jammed this probe in to the pod filter and the display on my steering column.

after a week of driving all sorts of conditions the results if I recal were like this.

60km/h on parramatta rd

ambiant temp (R32's have an ambiant temp button) = 23 degrees

digital display = 45 degrees

0km/h (stuck in traffic)

amb = 25

filter = 60

100km/h on freeway towards west

amb = 22

filter = 38

I then made up a partition with that heat shielded foam stuff from Clarks rubber

basically partitioned the filter off from the engine (not a box.. just a partition)

this made a pretty big difference when moving.

60km/h

amb = 22

filter = 30

100km/h

amb = 22

filter = 26

0km/h

amb = 24

filter = 54

I then put the stock air box in.

4 bolts hold the box to the afm.

I used 3 bolts and in the 4th hole I jammed the temp probe in.

60km/h

amb = 19

air box = 21

100km/h

amb = 18

air box = 18

0km/h

amb = 22

air box = 26

so where is your test and results?

just because you have a IC doesn't mean that it will do magic with the air going in.

if it's cold air going in, th ic does a better job at cooling it.

if the intake tamp is hot, the IC can only take so much of that heat off.

Long story short, put your stock air box in.

people have got over 250rwkw using them with a K&N type panel filter

[Fixxxer]

Nice work on the temp logging.

I'd be interested to see a comparison between the 3 mentioned above with the temp probe near the throttle body. I would guess a fairly similar result, but less of a difference between the three. Read below.

Something to think about, and I'm not totally sure if this is correct (and someone please correct me if it is):

The bigger the difference in temperature between 'ambient' and the post turbo/pre intercooler air, the bigger the change in temp (delta) post intercooler will be, i.e.,

Test 1. Small difference

Amb. = 25deg

Pre intercooler = 35deg

Difference in temp = 10deg

Intercooler = (guess) 70% efficient at removing temp = -7deg

Air temp post intercooler = 35-7 = 28deg

Test 2. Big difference

Amb = 25deg

Pre intercooler = 55deg

Difference in temp = 30deg

Intercooler @ 70% = -21deg

Air temp post intercooler = 55-21 = 34deg

Actual difference between Test 1 and Test 2 (post intercooler) = 6 degrees (not a lot?).

Now this doesn't take into account the differences in temp between all the inlet piping either. But I also haven't considered the heat soak this would do to the intercooler, ie., big diffenrence in temps would heat soak the cooler faster, which on a track may not be so great, but giving it a spurt every now and again on the street, or drag race, probably wouldn't be such a factor.

All in all, my brain hurts now...... but I think it would be a great test to see the temps just prior to the butterfly. As mentioned above, probably similar results to GTST's temp logging, but maybe less pronounced.

Fixxxer

[Munkyb0y]

thanks for that.

got a sore head now too.

but this is a very interesting point.

mainly coz my pod is not boxed, and i havent owned the car during hot summer temps yet.

cai's are mentioned on every 3rd thread. are they really less necessary than is being made out?

[jeffworld2]

yes, the bigger the difference in temp the bigger the drop, TRYHRD the 2000hp or so twin turbo v8 commodore did a lot of research designing their intercooler system, which featured four cores and they found the best sized intercoolers for max power was not single or twin, but the 4. in street commodores they had a four page indepth feature on the design and it had similar tests and results to the above.

the answer: even one degree cooler makes a difference. So put a partition at least but personably i have the stock box with k & n filter and attacked with a heat gun. radiator shroud on my car is designed to take air from the grille to the intake, and it goes very well. if you notice the difference at night when its cold then you know your car could be better. of course FM intercooler helps too, but stock one seems fine for me.

the longer you drive for, the more important it becomes to protect your intake. if you drive for 20min its going to be hotter under there than when you first turn it on. its basically free power if you build a partition yourself so why not. also make sure to get fresh air into your box/partition, why breathe your underbonnet air when you can get stuff from outside.

[Modena]

Yes somthing to keep it in place

Do you know where i can Buy one from?

Haha! Get ready for AFM problems and stalling!

[smurf80]

Haha! Get ready for AFM problems and stalling!

Not everyone will have the same problems you have had. I think your AFM was on the blink anyway and repalcing the box with a pod may have caused it to kick the bucket. I have a Blitz filter on mine and have never had a problem along with alot of my other mates. Some are secured some arnt and no dramas.

And the AFM was the reason for your car to stall.

Edited July 20, 2006 by alphanumeric

[Modena]

Not everyone will have the same problems you have had. I think your AFM was on the blink anyway and repalcing the box with a pod may have caused it to kick the bucket. I have a Blitz filter on mine and have never had a problem along with alot of my other mates. Some are secured some arnt and no dramas.

And the AFM was the reason for your car to stall.

I hope so for him anyway.

But generally when you bang a piece of electrical equipment as you drive around, electrical components will take the full force of it, ie: solder will come off.

My car is a 96 model in a mint condition, has done not even 50 000 KMs... (interior and exterior are immaculate) I hardly think that for some reason AFM wanted to cack it... the flapping pod caused it.

Ive learned my lesson and all in all it cost me over 250 bucks to fix it... f**ken waste of money dude.

[mad082]

how many big horsepower turbo cars do you see running heatsheilds? very few. most of them don't even have cold air feeds.

and gtst, fine you did some air temp testing. was the temp sonsor dead in the middle of the pod, or just on 1 side? it should've been towards the back of the pod, so it is collecting the temp of the air that is about to go past the afm. if you just stuck it onto the side of the pod then the data is useless as it is only measuring the air on 1 side of the pod. did you also do it after the turbo, before the intercooler? this is the only place that you could test to get a true answer to whether it works or not, due to the fact that the air has just gone past a hot turbo, and been heated up by the process of compression. and 10 degrees cooler before it is compressed may only be 5 degrees cooler once it is heated and compressed.

but i am yet to see a dyno sheet proving the difference. and it would have to be done back to back (run first run, pop the bonnet and put on the partition, then do the second run).

[faz]

I would suggest resetting your ECU as it is getting different air volumes and could do with a reset...

Stupid question again.. How do i reset my ECU

i've seen a similar thing before with my friends S14a 200sx (not wanting to go after installing a pod filter)

are you running more boost than standard?

the reason i ask, is we tracked the problem with his down to the rubber inlet pipe between the AFM and turbo heating up, and getting soft, then with the added restriction (compared to the stock panel filter) of the pod, it was sucking the rubber inlet pipe closed and limiting the airflow, hence limiting power.

Im running about 9-10PSI

Haha! Get ready for AFM problems and stalling!

I had stalling problems befor i put the POD in and now they have gone away,

Not to worryed about the AFM beacuse now i have it in there not touching anything, just want to get the power back that i had with the box on there, COuld the power be gone because of a leak when i was puting the POD on??