Just Put A K&n Pod On My R33

[mad082]

Stupid question again.. How do i reset my ECU

disconnect the battery.

[Primordial]

Stupid question again.. How do i reset my ECU

Disconnect positive battery terminal for 20 mins...

Note - you will lose your head unit settings too - radio stations, and audio controls will be reset to defaults..

[fr0st]

how many big horsepower turbo cars do you see running heatsheilds? very few. most of them don't even have cold air feeds.

How many big horsepower cars do you see running bonnets?

Having a colder intake will ALWAYS help power.

Even if its only 5 degrees cooler out of the turbo its still means your turbo is cooler, your intercooler has to disapate less heat and the air entering your engine will be cooler.

How is that not worth the small effort to make a heat shield?

[mad082]

How many big horsepower cars do you see running bonnets

i'm not talking about dyno runs. i'm talking at the drags.

and the problem with most heatsheilds is that they reduce the amount of air that can get to the pod. so if the pod can't breath as well you will lose power, not gain it.

[Primordial]

This issue is far too complex to be arguing about..

The gains/losses for either side of the argument would cancel each other out anyway IMO

[Kennedy]

all so i want to get something to keep it from moving atm its just sitting there what can i get made for it??

Bunnings sell "Make a Bracket" stuff. It's a dollar for a 1M piece and you can make bends in once very 5 cm.

My experince with a heathshield is positive. On my first track day I went out with an un-shielded pod. After my 3rd run the car was gurgling like a bitch every time I back off the throttle amd throttle response was lost. I also had trouble starting the car all aftermoon.

Afterwood I purchased a CAI box from "mr Crust" which uses the factory snorkel to direct the cold air into the box. Been on two track days since and have not had ANY gurgling issues which has resulted in a more consitent car all day no matter what the temp is.

[TTT]

probe was jammed in to the pod.

Basically it was sitting in front of the AFM mesh just like the afm probe sits in the afm.

Don’t go around giving advice on things when you are going by your own minds theory.

And don’t compare the majority of skyline owners to 2000hp drag cars.

Most people on here have street cars which they occasionally take to the drags or tracks.

[AzzurrA]

mad082... i fail to see how having a partition (like what i have in my car) between the engine bay and the pod is restricting the airflow?

my pod has space 360 degrees around it, and a clear pathway straight to the cold air coming in around the headlight.

you can notice the difference with the partition there... without it there, you go for a hard drive, and then touch the pod - its warm/hot...

with the partition in place if you do the same thing, the pod is cold, often very much so.

the partition is stopping the radiated heat from the engine bay (and intercooler pipes, as i'm using modified standard cooler pipes)

[smurf80]

I hope so for him anyway.

But generally when you bang a piece of electrical equipment as you drive around, electrical components will take the full force of it, ie: solder will come off.

My car is a 96 model in a mint condition, has done not even 50 000 KMs... (interior and exterior are immaculate) I hardly think that for some reason AFM wanted to cack it... the flapping pod caused it.

Ive learned my lesson and all in all it cost me over 250 bucks to fix it... f**ken waste of money dude.

Well for the record mine is a 97 model 33 with Genuine log booked k's and mine hasnt done it. Anything electrical can go at anytime thats the nature or electronics especially AFM's they are very touchy.

My mate has a 1989 Laurel and his HKS mushroom isnt secured and never has been and he drives the thing hard and drifts it and his AFM hasnt died on him. I just think its a big call blaiming a pod filter as the main reason for your problems

Chris

Edited July 20, 2006 by alphanumeric

[Munkyb0y]

mad082... i fail to see how having a partition (like what i have in my car) between the engine bay and the pod is restricting the airflow?

my pod has space 360 degrees around it, and a clear pathway straight to the cold air coming in around the headlight.

you can notice the difference with the partition there... without it there, you go for a hard drive, and then touch the pod - its warm/hot...

with the partition in place if you do the same thing, the pod is cold, often very much so.

the partition is stopping the radiated heat from the engine bay (and intercooler pipes, as i'm using modified standard cooler pipes)

AzzurrA, is your partition on the side of the pod ? or is it covering the top too?

Wondering if you'd still get heat from the top. I havent made a box for my pod yet, just investigating it now.

[Tangles]

there is very little power loss due to sucking hot air. the pod is sucking more air than the standard air filter so that increases power. you are better off having no heatsheild, as a heat sheild can reduce the amount of air the pod is sucking. heatsheilds make bigger power differences on natro cars, but very little difference on turbo cars as the air is heated the moment it goes through the turbo. and is then cooled by the intercooler, which is where power is lost or gained.

I dont agree - from my personal experience.

Rb25det, K&N pod filter...... open engine bay, sucks hot air.... was all good

added a heat shield eclosure (side and lid), didnt really change anything.

But then I took that off and added Maxx's CAI enclosure - now the car is sucking in so much cold air, my tune on the SAFC & SITC is now out, using 20% more fuel per tank, etc etc. With a retune I could regain that 20% fuel per tank and go from 160awkw to mid-160's.

Sucking in pure cold air with no hot engine bay air will result in a HP gain.

[mad082]

it isn't about how big the partition is, it is about how much air can get in.

for example if at 5000rpm the engine is sucking in 700cfm, and you partitioned airbox can only let in 500cfm then you are going to have less power than someone that has no partition and can feed up to 1000cfm.

and if cold air was so important and made such a difference, wouldn't the big hp cars be using it? since they are chasing every tiniest little bit of power they can get. if it can make a slight difference on a road car, then it should make a huge difference to them.

[Tangles]

I cant argue against my fuel gauge!

simpe as that

Maxx's cai box utilises the standard snorkel, getting far supirior flows of air then what I was previously. Its cold air now, and tune is now off because of it. Its getting so much cold air now on boost that the ecu's are throwing in extra fuel to compensate.

when I pay $100-odd for a quick retune I sincerely expect a 5awkw gain from the tune.

[AzzurrA]

you keep going back to the point of 'big hp cars'

which cars are you referring to exactly?

if you're referring to big hp drag cars.... you'll find that alot of them either remove their lefthand headlight, or have replaced it with a custom headlight that incorporates an air intake. With drags, the car is only started a very short time before the actual run, therefore they don't have to worry too much about heat soak and the ambient temperature of the engine bay... and as i said, during their run they're getting outside air forced through their engine bay anyway...

and yes, alot of them still run some form of shield anyway.

if you're referring to big hp circuit cars, you've got to be kidding me... i don't think i've ever seen one that DOESN'T have some form of heat shield!?!

it isn't about how big the partition is, it is about how much air can get in.

for example if at 5000rpm the engine is sucking in 700cfm, and you partitioned airbox can only let in 500cfm then you are going to have less power than someone that has no partition and can feed up to 1000cfm.

and if cold air was so important and made such a difference, wouldn't the big hp cars be using it? since they are chasing every tiniest little bit of power they can get. if it can make a slight difference on a road car, then it should make a huge difference to them.

[faz]

Afterwood I purchased a CAI box from "mr Crust" which uses the factory snorkel to direct the cold air into the box.

How much did this cost you and where is "Mr Crust'' i think this is what im after.

[sl33ek]

I made one myself too, its not enclosed, just a partition. Go bunnings lol

Just need an aluminium sheet and cutters. Use cardboard first to make a mock up and use that as a template.

For the CAI, get a flexible pipe from supercheap and feed it from the front bar. Get a pipe that is not ridged on the inside for smoother airflow.

[Kennedy]

How much did this cost you and where is "Mr Crust'' i think this is what im after.

$120.00.

Pm "mr Crust" but im pretty sure he's sold out

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=mr+crust

[bilbo117]

it isn't about how big the partition is, it is about how much air can get in.

for example if at 5000rpm the engine is sucking in 700cfm, and you partitioned airbox can only let in 500cfm then you are going to have less power than someone that has no partition and can feed up to 1000cfm.

and if cold air was so important and made such a difference, wouldn't the big hp cars be using it? since they are chasing every tiniest little bit of power they can get. if it can make a slight difference on a road car, then it should make a huge difference to them.

dude....

they arent wrapping the pod in a metal blanket... sperating the pod from the main heat sources of the engine bay is not going to make a significant restriction to inlet flow as long as there are suitable places to draw fresh air from.

I myself have seen more consistent performance from my car with the adition of a heat shield, and im not going to sit here and believe anyone who says it makes the car run WORSE. maybe you should give it a go yourself?

[Cubes]

but i am yet to see a dyno sheet proving the difference. and it would have to be done back to back (run first run, pop the bonnet and put on the partition, then do the second run).

A dyno is unable to simulate road conditions. So you wont, or shouldn't as the findings will be flawed.

Depending on the power level a pod isn't required, do remember turbos don't experience the same loss of power as an N/A due to an inlet restriction. I believe SK has also stated this in a previous similiar discussion.

The better flowing pod will make very little if any difference to power levels, providing we are talking sensible street usable power levels, not 800hp through a stock airbox.

Therefor 'I' conclude, A pod for street sensible power levels only has negative affects on performance...

1. The inlet air temperature is higher, resulting in a higher actual outlet temperature

2. The higher actual outlet temperature will heat soak the ic quicker

3. The air entering the motor is going to be higher, hotter air is less dense and promotes detonation. Both of which will reduce reliability and power, I forget how much power is reduced by every degree air temp is raised. But there is a real power loss.

[Fixxxer]

I believe it is 1% power for every 4deg C.

I'd still be very interested in seeing a test like I described on the first page, actual temps @ throttle body.

An IC will heatsoak faster with higher temps, but the car is usually travelling fast when on boost, and temps will plateau at a certain point (which will be slightly higher with higher intake temps).

I agree that a partition will lower temps, but I think people overestimate the benefits "on the street" on a FMIC'd turbo car.

If going for a pod, I would at the very least have a cold air feed directed at the pod (which is exactly my setup).

Fixxxer