Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey

I ended up getting the castrol vmx80 for my gearbox but i never bought any diff oil, i'm about to get some of that redline 75W90 for the diff, the only thing i'm not sure about is do i go for the synthetic oil or the shockproof oil? on there site the 75w90 is listed under synthetic only, not shockproof.

If i do go for shockproof, should i get the superlight - lightweight or Heavy.

thanks

Edited by Hulk1010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2806116
Share on other sites

Redline 75W90 Gear Oil is supposedly good.

I use it in my diff it is very very good , always had problems around roundabouts and tight corners with the inner wheel locking up tried a few oils none were any good , redline fixed my problem

I thought shockproof isn`t an LSD oil only for the gearbox, i use the Blue shockproof in my gearbox its mad too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2806488
Share on other sites

LightWeight ShockProof™

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in two-stroke and four-stroke motocross transmissions (often mixed in equal parts with SuperLight ShockProof™ Gear Oil).

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

Taken off the redline website , funny it not recommended for most synro gearboxes works mad in mine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2807902
Share on other sites

Yeah I'd make sure its suited to LSD diff's though..

You don't need "LSD" oil for a standard viscous diff. the viscous LSD unit is sealed from the rest of the diff enclosure and has its own fluid.

If you have a clutch type LSD (ie, you have a GTR, or your diff centre is aftermarket, or you have a skyline with A-LSD) then you need an "LSD" oil with friction modifiers in order for the clutch plates to work properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2808155
Share on other sites

I went to repco, autobahn and super cheat auto today and none of them had any redline products that i could see, where can i buy this stuff besides online?

--Nevermind just found some contact locations on there site--

Edited by Hulk1010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2820264
Share on other sites

instead of wasting your money on expensive redline which wont' do anything, because your diff is viscious (separate fluid for the viscous), I would honestly, use a castrol fluid.

Castrol lsx90. Cost ya about $30 for a 4L big bottle. You'll need 1.8L.

Castrol oils are a fairly good place to start from. At least it'll be correct.

Then, see how it feels, if it's good, then fine, it's good. From there, if you have a problem, then go mucking around with different fluids.

I have a mech diff, so I'm using motul oil, just so it changes the properties (won't do much to a viscous).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2820448
Share on other sites

You don't need "LSD" oil for a standard viscous diff. the viscous LSD unit is sealed from the rest of the diff enclosure and has its own fluid.

If you have a clutch type LSD (ie, you have a GTR, or your diff centre is aftermarket, or you have a skyline with A-LSD) then you need an "LSD" oil with friction modifiers in order for the clutch plates to work properly.

So you only need LSD oil for a mechanical LSD? And viscous LSD has a sealed in amount of its own special fluid you dont ever need to change??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2821002
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...