Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

instead of wasting your money on expensive redline which wont' do anything, because your diff is viscious (separate fluid for the viscous), I would honestly, use a castrol fluid.

Castrol lsx90. Cost ya about $30 for a 4L big bottle. You'll need 1.8L.

Castrol oils are a fairly good place to start from. At least it'll be correct.

Then, see how it feels, if it's good, then fine, it's good. From there, if you have a problem, then go mucking around with different fluids.

I have a mech diff, so I'm using motul oil, just so it changes the properties (won't do much to a viscous).

For the VLSDs used in GTSTs...the castrol Syntrax 75W90 is a good product...GL5 rated. Bit more expensive but great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2829141
Share on other sites

My questino for you is WHY (no pun or offence intended, just seeking information)?

Why use a gearbox oil in an LSD? The LSD should be using LSD oil with friction modifiers (yes I am aware that vlsd haev a separate oil/transfer fluid).

Why use a synthetic oil that will essentially be more slippery, when you want it to grip more?

Why waste money on something that is not required? Essentially the syntrax is $30 a litre rrp as opposed to about $8 a litre rrp for the lsx90 (trade price is a bit cheaper)

PS: In a gearbox, I can see the benefit of using the syntrax synthetic as opposed to the vmx80.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2832030
Share on other sites

In a true LSD, i.e. non VLSD you would use a friction modifed gear oil. The GTST stock runs a VLSD so you dont require the friction modifiers.

LSX90 is a LSD friction modified mineral base oil.

For a VLSD..gb oil is fine. Syntrax is a high quality 75W-90 syn oil and is suitable.

considering its like 1.2 litres and stays there for ages then I choose Syntrax for my GTST. Syn oil and "slippery" is a crock and its more about the oils resistance to sheer under high pressure and temps. The SAE rating will determine ur viscosity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2832410
Share on other sites

It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways.

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks?

Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc.

I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh.

That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2832482
Share on other sites

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

there's no point in using ANY oil past the point at which it starts to break down. however, that might be 3000km for a mineral oil, 5000km for a basic synthetic or 10,000km for a top shelf synthetic. so if you buy a cheaper oil you will have to change it more often anyway.

i'd rather buy good quality, full synth oil and change it "often enough". grab a sample of basic mineral oil (GTX3) and a good synth oil, and rub each one between your fingers. the full synth one is a LOT slipperier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2837336
Share on other sites

It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways.

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks?

Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc.

I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh.

That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

Personal prefernce. I will change it every year also with the good stuff maybe more sometime cos I get bored. I dont give a toss if it costs me an extra $40/50 or even $100 a year.

I do UOAs on my oil and have used these to detmine what is a. a good oil and b. how long to run it unde rmy driving conditions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2837397
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways.

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks?

Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc.

I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh.

That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

so i shouldnt be using the redline shockproof in the Diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-4326080
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...