Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm rebuilding my rb25det with gtr rods, arias pistons 20tho and want to know what the benifits of running a rb26 crank are? Should i stay with the 25 one? what happens to that if i keep it? do i put a collar for the oil pump?

engine is apart already,

can someone explain?

thanks simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126774-rb26-crank-needed-or-not/
Share on other sites

If you have already bought your pistons you have to use the crank that suits them.

eg. if you bought rb25 pistons you can't use the rb26 crank because the piston will stick out the top of the block about 1mm.

The crank collar is a good idea but not essential.

If you are going to the expense of a new n1 oilpump then I'd definately do it.

no, you just purchase them to the size that your builder sets.

Have a chat with them, they will explain it.

Although i dont see the need to go 26 crank. As it stands you cant get any anywhere in the country anyway. So your gonna be using the RB25 crank + collar if you want you car back running this year :dry:

cool, i haven't yet brought the pistons.

if i put 26 pistons in will that make the bore too thin?

Both rb25 and rb26 have an 86mm bore std.

You will find an r32 rb26 crank if you want one bad enough but the asking price has doubled since nissan ran out of new r33 cranks.

By the time you fit a collar to it you might spend over $800 for an rb26 crank.

There are a lot of mods that will give you more power for your $800 than 70 extra ccs.

are you sure that they checked the order status in Japan?

and what did they quote you? :)

ps I'm getting you a price on those DBA5000 replacement rotors

They said that it was in stock and wanted $1100.

Thanks for the pricing too :)

EDIT: Sorry guys, just been informed that only 2 came in, and both are spoken for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...