Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking around for a R33 GTS-T series II M-spec manual, but prices vary a lot and i don't want to get a dodgy car.. what bracket would you guys say is the right price? 16-18 thousand?

also.. are there any real differences between series II and I besides the front bar?

cheers :wave:

looking around for a R33 GTS-T series II M-spec manual, but prices vary a lot and i don't want to get a dodgy car.. what bracket would you guys say is the right price? 16-18 thousand?

also.. are there any real differences between series II and I besides the front bar?

cheers :wave:

R33 S1 & S2 Differences

Get out there and have a look at the cars, you'll soon work out why the difference in pricing.

Personally I think alot of people don't check out the market for themselves before advertising their car for sale hence the jaggered prices

Ps - Plug for my car as it's for sale and I'm a nice person :wave:

thanks for all the info guys, very helpful :wave:

also liz i would love to buy yours.. looks awesome.. but its 1000kms away and i have to sell my current car first so im afraid i cant :wave:

Edited by hobbsy

i'd be looking at spending 20k+ if I was to buy a gtst again, but that's just me. I like things perfect. not one single door dent. no swirlies. no interior blemishes. engine compression like it is 1 day old. but like I said, I like things perfect.

**btw, this is just generally. of course, you mgiht score a total bargain for cheap, but you know the saying, generally, you get what you pay for.

trust me mate.

you spend less, you'll end up spending it anyways.

e.g. an immaculate one will cost 20k+.

you'll always get these keyboard warriors saying you can get one for 15. sure, but look at this example.

A friend of mine bought a 93 model for 11 k. was an auto.

paid 2k to convert it to manual.

engine blew - 6k rebuild.

paint was shit, so he spend 2 k respraying.

at this stage, it still was pretty crap inside. all the bushes and suspensions were probably still crap.

I know which one i'd prefer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...