Diff query

[maxr33]

OK I'm fairly new to this mechanical knowledge thing but learning fast. I've got an R33 S2 GTS-T that had a few mods done in Rice land (HKS fmic, cusco suspension, pod, 3 1/2" Blitz Nur Spec cat back). The compliancer also told me it had an aftermarket diff. From talking to a few people it seems to have a locker in it. When turning slow at full lock I can feel a fairly gentle clicking/gripping throught the steering wheel and the tyres slip a bit against each other - hence a locker? The outside casing is stamped 351 which I believe is a pretty standard general driving gear set-up. Thing is I don't know that I really want the locker - not going for full on drag racing stuff, and would rather a standard LSD for driveability and to save my tyres. To go the LSD option do I need to replace the whole diff or just some of the internals as someone told me. What's the locker set up worth and what would a standard LSD set me back. I know the only real way to check is probably pull it all apart but I'm not too interested in doing that, but if anyone can give me a bit more info I'd appreciate it.

[Ronin 09]

By the sounds of your desciption it is a locker; the clicking/gripping you hear is the back wheels skipping due to the difference in speed between the two arcs drawn by them. It is easier to replace the whole diff than the gearset.

Don't know what the locker is worth but i'd be willing to swap for my std LSD + cash

[CMS Drifter]

It sounds like a mechanical LSD, thus the clicking then the scuffing of the tyres. Either a Cusco, or Tomie is most likely.

To replace it would require remove the diff centre and fitting the stock LSD back in. The easiest way would be to reomive the complete diff, that way you wont need to "open" it, just straight swap.

I'd anticipate it to take an hour to remove and the same to fit.

If you were in WA I'd offer to swap yours for mine and I'd fit it for you. Drive-in, drive-out.

[R33NT]

I saw a diff similar to what yours probably is on the JMS site for around $1200 (they where having problems selling it) and i know that the standard diff in good condition supposedly goes for around $800 from a wrecker.

Mind you the standard LSD is crap. I had mine rebuilt about 2months ago with a clutch pack centre and fark me does this hang on now. I can accelarate heaps harder through corners and out from a T intersection since it doesnt loose grip on one wheel and start fishying as easily.

[CMS Drifter]

How much did the rebuild cost u???

[R33NT]

$1200 (exchange)

as always Unique Auto Sports in sydney

The picture is from their site and it is actually my diff.

http://202.139.242.57/Images1a/Skyline%20p...rts/r33diff.jpg

[maxr33]

Thanks for the replies - doesn't sound like it's worth downgrading to a LSD. I'll just deal with the rubber wear and learn how to handle it when she blows sideways! Cheers Max

[R33NT]

Dont forget there is additional wear on all the bearings and bushes in your rear end everytime you park at the shops, everytime you turn that wheel under accelaration (which is often) there is additional torsional stresses on your axles etc. I have seen people with welded diffs snap axles because of this sort of stress (Not skylines).

I had the option of getting that diff from JMS but i decided against it for the above reasons. I am very pleased with my diff at the moment and i invite any mechanic to join into this to give his opinion.

[Ender]

If the diff is giving a clicking sound doesn't this mean it is not locked..or 'engaged' at that time...I very much doubt that it would be a full time locked setup...that means tyre wear etc when parling is not really an issue....well not unless you park with gusto anyway.

I may be wrong here but I was sure the clicking was when it is disengaged.

Russ

[maxr33]

Nah dude, turning slowly on gravel you can hear/see the tires slipping at idle speed on full lock so I figure that means it's permanently engaged. If you gun it around a corner under boost when it starts to lose traction it seriously throws the rear end sideways - makes learning to handle the beast interesting!

[Jay95R33]

If it's a mechanical diff (ie 1.5 or 2 way diff), the wheels won't skip on tight corners with the clutch in.

But if the diff has been welded or is locked 100% of the time, then it will skip regardless of whether the clutch is in or out.

I've got a mechanical in mine and the tyre wear isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Only marginally more wear than normal. And you do learn how to drive the car with minium to zero wheel skipping around corners.

The thing that frustrates me the most is when people get in the car and the first thing they say is 'My god, what's that noise?', and then I have to explain the whole story to them cause they have no idea what a 2 way diff is

J

[Jon R33]

Should this clicking sound be loud?

For a while now mine has been making a chunky gear slipping noise, at least that's what it sounds like to me, sounds like gear teeth jumping.

Doesn't sound healthy.

[Jay95R33]

The loudness of the noise is dependand on a few things.

One is the amount of lockup the diff is doing at the time - which is dependant on the amount of turn you have on the wheel and also how much you've pressed the go peddal

It's also dependant on what sort of tyres you've got. I've found the silicon compound tyres aren't as noisey once they have been run for a few hundred km.

The sound isn't so much a clicking noise. The only way I can explain it is imagine it being the noise the you heard when you axle tramp, then reduce that noise to about 10%. Sort of a thud, thud, thud noise as the inside tyre tries to travel the same distance as the oustide, and then effectivly spins about 1/8th (or less) of a turn with every full revloution.

I hope this makes sence... It's way to early for me to get technical

J

[MotoX]

lol

i can explain this noise, its like

tsh tsh tsh tsh reasonably fast.

[R33NT]

Trust me swap your mechanical for a standard and hit the other party up for $600. Then get the standard LSD done with a clutch pack. When i was running my LSD in it was permanently locked (loosens up as you wear it in) i found that whenever i turned the locked action of the LSD wanted to drive me straight.

I cant understand why it is a problem with it kicking out though, the skyline is heaps easier to fishy all over the road or drift when both wheels are locked together (more predictable than one wheel letting go then the other etc).

[maxr33]

Tire wear and stuff like that actually isn't the most annoying thing. I don't actually hear much clicking noise (or any other similar well described sound effect!), certainly doesn't really sound like what you guys are describing. When I'm under low revs - when I turn a tight corner the motor goes under load (I'm assuming that's because it's trying to spin one wheel against the other) and tends to become a bit jerky. Similar to a learner driver bunny hopping when starting - that's what bugs me a bit sounds like you haven't got enough revs up and the car's trying to stall. The tighter I turn the more load the motor sounds like it's carrying. It's really only things like T-intersections from a standstill that I notice it. If I'm turning as I'm building up revs in first gear it tends to happen. If I've been driving forward for a bit, say into second, then turning I still feel it a bit but the engines got the revs not to feel jerky. If I come hard into a right angle corner at about 60 it just rips around no drama, roundabouts I don't notice it.

How does the clutch pack set up work?

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I've just completed a drift training day and realised that the LSD in the R33 GTS-t's are completely useless. I was spinning 1 wheel most of the time, and it makes it hard to stick the ass out:(

I'm seriously thinking about buying either a 1.5 or 2-way diff. What is the difference between the two? It's my daily drive car, so is it feasible to be able to swap in and out a locked diff for major events and then put back my LSD? How long would the diff swap take?

[Lepperfish]

My R33 diff kicks out sideways very easily.......

BEst diff Ive had in a car.....

[Duncan]

actually, I've got the same problem, an apparently unlimited slip diff Anyone know the causes or if/how it can be fixed/reconditioned?

[Jay95R33]

G'day Paul,

How's things?

The name of the diffs (1.5 way, 2 way) discribes the speed that the diff will lock up, and the amount they lock up both forwards and reverse. Reverse being when your de-accelerating (off throttle).

The 1.5 ways are more suited for track work, and 2 ways are for drag and drift. Saying that, they both are better than the stock diffs for drag, drift and track work.

I've got a site bookmarked at home that explains the differeces between the types - I think it's the ATS site. Got good info on it etc.

Try and find someone with a 2 way around your area so you can tack it for a drive and see what it's like.

I found that it's quicker in the corners as the factory diff will spin up the inside wheel very easily while turning, while the 2 way grips heaps better.

If you can put up with additional tyre wear and the noise then go for it. You learn how to drive it on the streets to reduce the noise anyway. For a while there I was thinking of getting rid of mine, but the changed my mind

J