Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can anyone help???

my rb 20 has a bit of an unstable idle and sputters every now an then.

it is pretty standard (only a 3" turbo back)

would an ECU reset fix this or do i need to get it tuned or (even worse) is there something seriously wrong with it????

thanks for your help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126936-ruff-idle-on-rb20det/
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack but HOW THE jolly heck do you adjust idles on a Rb20????

EDIT i read the post ive figured it out now ill try it on the weekend.

Theres an idle screw on the AAC Valve. If your standing at the front of your car looking over the engine it sits on the end of your plenium and the screw faces your left.

i had crap idle and fixed it:

AAC valve cleaning, throttle body cleaning

and also I had a inlet manifold gasket leak, so replaced that gasket and just perfect idle all the time now

Nice work. How did you spot the inlet manifold leak? Could you hear it? Did you use a vacuum gauge?

Cheers

plus the R32 acc valve is slightly different ==>

there is only one hose connected to the valve and only one electrical clip.

the valve also has 4 bolts.

another difference is that the spring and all that bizzo is insode the solinoide cover. mine was caked in crap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
    • Generally yes but for some reason I've been ruthless this time around!  I might even need to do another tip run after the way I've finally been able to hit the delete button on shit I've stepped over, stepped around and tripped over for the past 10 years!
×
×
  • Create New...