Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i ordered a brand new n1 block today actually its in melbourne and gonna be here in 4 days or so hopefully :( not sure if there are any others left or not.

not cheap but when u want big power u gotta pay.

i dont think putting $50k into a china safe is a smart idea so im doing a n1 block to replace the 05U block :( buy the best safe then start putting money in it is a much smarter idea.

my 05U cracked after 1200km of use with the new setup. not happy at all, but this means the new block wont limit power output for a long while yet.

No - just the same tuner

do u even know where it was tuned at ? im using the autronics by the way so u can guess who it wasnt :wave:

i got the djetro sitting aside and if i use that ill use who u are talking about but i am keeping autronics at the moment and ive found a good tuner so i dont need to sell it.

why bring workshops into it anyway?

Edited by CruiseLiner
do u even know where it was tuned at ? im using the autronics by the way so u can guess who it wasnt :wave:

i got the djetro sitting aside and if i use that ill use who u are talking about but i am keeping autronics at the moment and ive found a good tuner so i dont need to sell it.

why bring workshops into it anyway?

Chill man - only having a stir. :D

The crack is in a known weak place (as you say) and actually is more a function of the balancing and revs that the engine sees. In my case it was caused by poor harmonics and high revs. Was certainly a deciding factor in me spending the $$$ on a full counter weighted crank, ATI damper and close attention to balancing.

Chill man - only having a stir. :D

The crack is in a known weak place (as you say) and actually is more a function of the balancing and revs that the engine sees. In my case it was caused by poor harmonics and high revs. Was certainly a deciding factor in me spending the $$$ on a full counter weighted crank, ATI damper and close attention to balancing.

no worries gav i am just over all the workshop battles and so forth in perth its annoying as no one agrees on who is good and bad, etc its a losing battle i just keep my mouth shut now :wave:

Chill man - only having a stir. :cheers:

The crack is in a known weak place (as you say) and actually is more a function of the balancing and revs that the engine sees. In my case it was caused by poor harmonics and high revs. Was certainly a deciding factor in me spending the $$$ on a full counter weighted crank, ATI damper and close attention to balancing.

HI Gav, this comment sparked my interest. The block cracking I have seen has been vertically, up the water jacket. I haven’t seen one go along the block. Which way did yours crack?

:blink: cheers :P

for us visually challanged people can someone point out the crack on that pic?

under the central bottom right hand bolt.... EDIT: Guess not. one day... I still want my questions below answered... please...

I think...

and because I really don't know, couldn't it be fixed? unfixable? weaker (how much)? and could bracing help prevent it happening?

Edited by ebola
HI Gav, this comment sparked my interest. The block cracking I have seen has been vertically, up the water jacket. I haven’t seen one go along the block. Which way did yours crack?

:( cheers :D

It was a while ago and I don't have a very good piccy, but I think it was at the top of the rib in the red circle.

gallery_705_63_55248.jpg

Edited by Gav

Hard block that hole, and that particular water jacket, run and external high pressure feed straight from your oil pump and you will go along way to solving the problem of cracked blocks!!!

for us visually challanged people can someone point out the crack on that pic?

The rusty water runs down the block due to gravity. So look for the highest point of leaking water, you can see the hairline crack going front to rear.

:( cheers :D

Last year you could pick them up no problems. You cant do that anymore as production has stopped in Japan and there are none left in Australia, and very rare and expensive in Japan now.

I have just found out about this.

I can still buy N1 blocks out of Japan and they are still being made.

You can still get the Nur block aswell which you can tell because of the x in the right corner after the engine number.

And also the GT block is still being made and has a 4 month waiting list :

Which is 5mm taller then an N1 block and 3mm thicker walls than the N1 block.

Bring a bunch into Australiua then as I know quite alot of people who are after them.

For the past 2 months it has been virtually impossible to get hold of one. Everyone promises the world yet cant deliver.

I have just found out about this.

I can still buy N1 blocks out of Japan and they are still being made.

You can still get the Nur block aswell which you can tell because of the x in the right corner after the engine number.

And also the GT block is still being made and has a 4 month waiting list :

Which is 5mm taller then an N1 block and 3mm thicker walls than the N1 block.

I think you have been misinfomred.

N1 blocks are still unavailable in Japan. If you can get them...I will have ten please.

Also, the GT block is not 'taller' than the N1 block. How do I know? I've had 2 sitting beside each other. Interesting that you say there is a waiting list for the GT block. Maybe if they get another lot of 300, they will make another run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...