Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, at risk of sounding completly stupid I would love some clarification as to what is what.

Would be great if you could save this pic and circle the following parts in paint or similar and post it back up for me so I know what I am looking for.

-Sway bar bushes

-Upper bushes

-Lower bushes

-Radius bushes

-Bump stops

suspensioncomponantsse9.jpg

Long story short, I am going to tacle replacing these myself but want to be sure so any help would be great!

Thanks!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126950-suspension-componants/
Share on other sites

ok upper bushes is maked as 'upper link', when you take the upper link off you cant miss the bushes...

radius rod is marked as 'tension rod bushing'

bump stop is marked as 'bumper'

best to remove the 'tension rod' and 'upper link' and take it to a shop, the bushes need to be pressed out. As with the sway bars, prob better of buying one of SK's whiteline sway bars, the kit comes with bushes and mounting instructions, i think $200 or so for front and rear. You could also buy the radius rod bushes and front camber bushes of SK as well, about $100 each... check to group buy section... i wouldnt worry to much about the bump stops unless your car gets airbourne alot...

if you want me to circle the diagram let me know.... just too lazy now, long day at work...

ALSO, out of interest, would a camber kit fix any of this?? if so, what?

I am thinking about getting front and rear sway bars and front and rear camber kits but wonder if this will come with / affect any of the bushes I am replacing (for instance the upper link bushes...)

Where do the camber kits sit?

Edited by CATKICKER

yeah sorry, the lower link uses a ball joint, you will know if this needs replaceing...

what exactly are you trying to fix??

if it is uneven tyre wear from lowering your car, then a camber kit will reduce the amount of camber your running... a front camber kit will replace the bushes on the upper link.... note that there are two bushes on the upper link, the whiteline camber kit only replaces one of these bushes. so if you want to replace both bushes on one arm then you will need to buy 2 camber kits. The rear suspension assembly is different from the front in that there are two upper arms... two bushes on each arm = 4 bushes per side, again whiteline rear camber kit comes with one bush for each arm.. reason for this is that the camber kits are to correct the camber of the wheel. if you want to replace all the bushes then you will need to camber kits.

if you have lowered your car then i would recommend buying rear camber kits, front camber should be ok, and one kit is generally enough... if you are running Japanese suspension, eg tiens, with extremely hard springs then you probably dont need swaybars, the bars dont have a chance to work cause the springs are tooooo stiff.

Thanks for that shoei!

I will double check with the ball joint.

What I am trying to do is fix the list of problems that came up after a suspension check at pedders.

I think what I will do is buy:

1x front camber kit

1x rear camber kit

1x caster kit

rear subframe alignment kit

front sway bar

rear sway bar

I have just purchased some near new bilstien shocks with lowered springs so will do the lot at the same time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
    • The nature of my commute has changed. Way back then it was traffic lights all the way, for ~28km. It sucked. When they finally stitched the expressway together I could do a good 15+km of it at a steady 80-100 with no stopping. That alone has gotten me down to flat 10s. Prior to that it was mid-high 10s. I can't remember the delta that I saw when I got the idle down. It was only ~150 rpm, because the idle speed was never terrible, but for the delta in consumption to be noticeable it would have had to have been at least 0.2-0.3 L/100km - which is not to be sneezed at when it comes for absolute free. It's only about 50L per year, but that's ~$100. A few extra pizzas is always welcome. Note that I have a record of every tank of fuel that has ever gone through my car except for a handful put in by someone else, like my mechanic. I can show you the difference between stock RB20 and tuned RB20, stock RB5Neo and tuned, winter and summer fuel blends, winter and summer fuel blends when the ambient temperature is not appropriate for the blend, working O2 sensor, blown O2 sensor, boosting f**k out of it and frightened to boost it because it is pinging, and so on. OK, I probably can't do all that now with 100% clarity - but at the time when any of those things were in event, you could see it in the records. There's 25+ years of simple tank after tank records, so you have to look for landmarks to work out approximately how old any single record is. What's really important is the meta data and that lives in my head.
    • If you're claiming the issues are not skyline specific, then either the USA is living in the 90s / early 2000s, OR you have the issue of "survivor bias". Which is you're mainly hearing and listening to those with terrible experiences, and haven't found the guys who have cars with good decent builds and no problems. It happens in AU too, that plenty of people keep having issues, and they keep going to the workshops that are known to be shit "because I read on the internet". Even worse, are those who keep posting on the internet as though they know for a fact what something is, when they've never touched/looked at said item in their life, and again are making assumptions, based on something they read, or because it's a certain way in other cars. It's even funnier when those same people debate the facts with the people who've lived and breathed this stuff for over 15 years. Example, I've had someone tell me you can't do something with a Skyline, because they read it on the internet, except I can tell they're wrong, as I did that exact thing back in 2008 with my Skyline.
    • The funniest part I saw, was someone would bitch and moan on FB about something, Andy would be the one to respond, asking for more info, if he could contact them, what the engine setup is, what their config file was, and 95% of the responses were people just going "der! It doesn't work" and Andy going "What doesn't work?" And then going "The firmware!" And they'd go around in circles as no one could ever give information, and Haltech couldn't fault things on the bench, (especially when people wouldn't give any specifics).   Many moons ago, when Andy was back at e420c stage, he reached out to me, and asked me to test different plug and play looms for him (already had an e420c in the car on his V1 PNP loom). And he kept asking me, as I was competent enough to be able to give him some specific feedback on what was/wasn't working, how to replicate the faults etc, and work through things with him. Most people are terrible at answering the questions they're asked, or being able to provide quality feedback other than "it doesn't work".
×
×
  • Create New...