Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Greedy boost gauge which i have just recently connect up. Boost reading works fine but i cant get the back light to work.

I have connected the black wire to my cigarette lighter light, i have just piggy backed this wire and soldered all wires together. I have then got the white wire connected to the same point as i have earthed my Cd player.

The cigareter light is still working but i cant get the boost gauge back light to work.

What am I doing wrong?

Any help would be great guys.

CHeers,

Brenton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126951-boost-gauge-back-light-wont-work/
Share on other sites

black is probably ground, which should go to where you earthed your CD player.

White is probably power (12v+), which you'd need to tap to the RED wire of your ciggy lighter. Also test that your ciggy lighter works.

From what you wrote, it sounds like you have both wires going to earth.

Yeah what these guys have said is correct... if you've got a multimeter, check to see that the wires you're using hasve voltage. If you dont have one, Jaycar sell cheap ones for $12 and they are invaluable if you're doing any sort of car electronics (or any other electronics for that matter!)

If the light its self is just a blobe it wont matter if the polarity is in reverse.

Get a MM and test at the back of boost G to see if you are getting Volts.

Or even better, just find your self a light power wire, make a test light and play around with under the shroud were the light switch is, then just

strip some off the wire and solder a nother wire off it to your bosst light :wave:

But yeah (BLACK will be -)( and white is +) If it is an LED lit dial it will have a diod built in so you wount have blowen the led by hooking it up wrong. It just wont light up till you have it in the correct polarity.

Hope that helped bud.

kezza

Thanks guys.

I thought it would of been me being a dill and connecting the wires up wrong. Cheers again.

Now I best go and cut my solder away from ciggy lighter power wire and fix it up.

Thanks for your help. if that doesnt work I think I might have a blown light.

Anywho.

Thanks again,

Brenton

Edited by R32_4door_drifting

RED is ALWAYS positive

BLACK is ALWAYS negative

so check your black is grounded and the other wise (if its not red, whatever colour it is) is to the positive wire

you always need a multimeter if doing any kind of electrical work - a good investment

RED is ALWAYS positive

BLACK is ALWAYS negative

so check your black is grounded and the other wise (if its not red, whatever colour it is) is to the positive wire

you always need a multimeter if doing any kind of electrical work - a good investment

generally yes...but not always I have seen plently of setups with other colors used. Esp. setups from O/S.

best way is to use a multi-meter and test everything as suggested - I never trust the wiring lume - find out for sure is the best way.

As for ground..such a common fault from the numerous setups mates have bought over for fixing...I tend to always re-ground my setups and get a really good connection onto the body somewhere...

when I got my GSTS the boost guage was not working...i pulled it apart to find one of the pins was broken of the circit board...a soldered it all back togetehr and presto the beast is alive...howveer this may be a bit difficult if i have no idea. Get the multi-meter (which your gonna buy!) and test the connections...u should see 12V at the pins which plugs into the back of the guage...this will narrow down ur issue.

Edited by khunjeng

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...