Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a really weird problem with my r33 rb25det

mods are

cooler

exhaust

walbro pump

now im using a blitz ebc and ive got stock boost setting 7psi and high which is 10psi

the plugs are gapped at .8mm copper ngk plugs and ive tapped up the coils

but the car will only miss fire either at nite(cold air) or early mornings(cold air) on way 2 work 8am.

i drove it around for about an hour today around 1-2pm and it would rev fine on 10psi all the way to 7000rpm, driving home from mates place before 8pm colder air, it would just miss fire from 4500rpm onwards wether on high/low boost

would any of you guys have any idea wot this could be? maybe AFM?

thanx

Justin

Edited by l0WRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127057-rb25det-miss-fire/
Share on other sites

it might be getting higher boost (creep) due to the cold weather and the boost cut from the stock ecu is kicking in....

hey mate, nah ive felt boost cut before and it nearly thru me thru the windscreen LOL

the boost barely spikes above 10psi ive got it set to it creeps up and just gets to 10psi

so im buggered as to wot it could be ?

There is no Map sensor.

Does it still happen if your on the low bost setting?

Sounds like the common rich and retard(search).

Well i dont know about your car but mine has a map sensor, it used to break down as it would only read up to 19psi and my car would sometimes hit 22psi when it was cold, it would miss and break down over 5000 revs. My mechanic reduced the boost and it hasnt missed since then.

There is no Map sensor.

Does it still happen if your on the low bost setting?

Sounds like the common rich and retard(search).

i can turn the ebc down as low as it can go 7psi stock and it still splutters and farts up thru top end. wont rev out cleanly

For justin- you are probably on the edge of the r & r mapping and the cold denser air is tipping you over the edge. Combined with old coils you begin to get the miss as the mixtrues are richer. Check the heat range plugs you are running too. You want a 6.

I'd put it on a dyno before doing anything though and see what your arf's are doing. It will eliminate afm's/fuel pumps/fuel filters/injectors from the list of possibles for 60 bucks. Then start looking at spark.

Taso- your's is almost certainly coils, but try gapping your plugs down to .8 before commiting to a set of splitfires or similar.

how old are the plugs that you are running? if they are getting on a bit then whack a new set in. even if they are iridiums and aren't that old (10-15,000k's) they may be dead.

does it sound like its hitting the speed limiter? i had a dead coil and when you boosted up it sounded like it was hitting the speed limiter (but would keep reving).

quote name='BHDave' date='22 Jul 2006, 08:52 AM' post='2348076']

For justin- you are probably on the edge of the r & r mapping and the cold denser air is tipping you over the edge. Combined with old coils you begin to get the miss as the mixtrues are richer. Check the heat range plugs you are running too. You want a 6.

I'd put it on a dyno before doing anything though and see what your arf's are doing. It will eliminate afm's/fuel pumps/fuel filters/injectors from the list of possibles for 60 bucks. Then start looking at spark.

Taso- your's is almost certainly coils, but try gapping your plugs down to .8 before commiting to a set of splitfires or similar.

ok mate i will give my mech a call and get him to throw it on the dyno and check those possibilities out

i know the timing is set at 15degrees advanced at 650rpm as we set it about 2 weeks ago because for some reason the timing was at 0 degrees on idle : ,fuel filter was changed when the car was complied about 8 weeks ago along with oil,i also put in a new walbro 500hp pump 3 weeks ago as stock one died on me. i wish i had a mate with a powerfc to plugin and find out but he lives 4hrs away! :( im running heat range 7 plug gapped at .8

how old are the plugs that you are running? if they are getting on a bit then whack a new set in. even if they are iridiums and aren't that old (10-15,000k's) they may be dead.

does it sound like its hitting the speed limiter? i had a dead coil and when you boosted up it sounded like it was hitting the speed limiter (but would keep reving).

plugs are only about 4 weeks old, i pulled out platinums that it came over with from japan

nah its not hitting speed limiter, ive felt that before it and its a jarring motion and basically pulls ur whole car back lol

This is IMO absolutley ECU.

To back it up.

I have a Jaycar DFA - it's a air flow voltage adjuster that works like a safc.

The DFA has a switching mechanism that turns on the voltage regulation, only atfer the car has started.

I installed it and had it tuned and my car was going well, with no misfire. It had repaired colipacks and spark gapped at 0.8mm.

Anyway, one night, my car seemed sluggish at 10psi. This was at the start of winter this year. Then on cold nights, it would pop and fart and misfire etc.

After checking things out, I found that the adjustment for the DFA to kick in after the car had started was out, and not kicking in. The original afm voltage was being put though to the ECU. After recalibrating the DFA so it would kick, the car went better than ever, all problems solved.

It would seem that on cold nights, the air is denser ^whatBHDavesaid^ and your ecu dumps heaps of fuel in making the mixture rich. This will cause misfire. It's like a protection mode. Seems to happen with engines fitted with pods and intercoolers more frequently.

Now your colis might not be good enough, but I would think that if your colis are stuffed, you would get the misfire all of the time, and not just when cold.

So your solution IMO is to get an apexi Power FC Computer, or an apexi SACF2 , or build a Jaycard DFA. Then get whatever you pick tuned.

I also netted a 20kw or more gain with the DFA. If I get more money, (and I don't sell the skyline) I will be buying a Power FC from a group buy from the forum.

Chriso

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...