Jump to content
SAU Community

New Pb Low 12's R33 Gtst Street Driven

Robo's

By Robo's,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
Posted
I'd love to hear from people who've tried them on comparisions with

+ BF Goodrich Comp TA

+ MT ET Street

+ MT ET Street Radial

+ MT ET Drag Radial

I've previously used BFG Comp T/A's, but now use MT ET Drag Radials.

Based on my own personal experience, I've found both sets of tyres to give comparable levels of grip and similar 60' times, although I'm still yet to beat my best 60' time set with the BFG's, although I've been within a tenth (I will get there one day though :) ).

As mentioned previously, I find that the MT's really need 1 or 2 big burnouts (i.e 2nd gear, lots of smoke) initially to get some decent grip out of them, after which a smallish burnout is adequate on subsequent runs. Contrastingly, I found that the BFG's were usually up to optimum grip after one decent burnout, although I've read comments from others claiming that they had trouble getting grip out of these tyres.

With regards to wear, well neither tyre lasts very long, but that's to be expected. I've found the level of wear to be comparable between both sets of tyres.

From a value perspective, the MT's win hands down at $250 buck a corner when compared with the $400 odd that I paid for the BFG's - definately not worth the extra $150 a corner in a side by side comparison (in my opinion).

I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's also used the Hoosier drag radial that they did a write up on in Zoom a few months back. I haven't actually seen anyone using them, although they seemed to perform well in the test...

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

I've used a lot of regular street radials with poor results.

I've used Dunlop, Yokahama and Pirelli circuit spec semi's with equally poor results - i.e. the same, low 1.9 second 60' times.

Nitto NT555R, BFG Comp T/A and MT ET Street Radials have all produced 1.6 second 60' times with the MT tyres the most consistant and quickest (1.66 sec) and the Nitto's having the longest treadwear by far. (Both 245/50/16 and 275/40/17's).

BF's were very good too but less consistant than either Nitto or MT.

Adrian

Notes: 3240lb race weight, manual trans, std config IRS rear with upgraded components.

Russco Proficient

Russco

Posted
Posted
I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's also used the Hoosier drag radial that they did a write up on in Zoom a few months back. I haven't actually seen anyone using them, although they seemed to perform well in the test...

I've used both M/T & Hoosier drag radials - the M/Ts were 255 x 50 x 16 & Hoosiers were a 225 x 50 x 16 - to be honest they provided almost identical 60" times ranging from 1.75 to 1.8 sec. Hoosiers seem to have a softer side-wall than the M/Ts & look to be a slightly better track tire. Price-wise the M/Ts win hands down however the Hoosiers are good to the extent they can fit on stock 6.5" wide GTST rims. The smaller overall diameter of the Hoosiers required less revs with the launch than the M/Ts - also seemed to be a bit more consistent but this could have been me not the tyres........

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted
I've used a lot of regular street radials with poor results.

I've used Dunlop, Yokahama and Pirelli circuit spec semi's with equally poor results - i.e. the same, low 1.9 second 60' times.

Nitto NT555R, BFG Comp T/A and MT ET Street Radials have all produced 1.6 second 60' times with the MT tyres the most consistant and quickest (1.66 sec) and the Nitto's having the longest treadwear by far. (Both 245/50/16 and 275/40/17's).

BF's were very good too but less consistant than either Nitto or MT.

Adrian

Notes: 3240lb race weight, manual trans, std config IRS rear with upgraded components.

Those Nitto's do seem to last a while don't they? Watch out for steel wires late in the day though...

TurbostyleR Collaborator

TurbostyleR

Posted
Posted

I think the reason why the Nittos are a good drag tyre is in the sidewall. Have you guys actually pressed down on the sidewall of a Nitto when the tyre is not fitted to the car? Its bloody soft in comparison to my Potenza RE01s which are my steer tyres for the front...

I cant wait to see how my Nittos go on the street! :(

Ill also let you guys know how the Nittos perform at the track compared to my M/T ET streets...

Damn I have way too many rims and tyres!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Did the noise appear after your sand trap adventure? Could be something got dislodged and is playing rub rub. Even a rock wedged somewhere.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
×
×
  • Create New...