Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy Gals & Guys.

I have a very interesting issue, my 4WD light comes on intermittantly.

I have a 97 Stagea RS Four V which has been converted to Manual and has a Power-FC put into it, amoungst other bits and pieces.

Anyway All the work was done before I bought the vehicle. Bought it about a year ago.

Now it has been bloody awesome, except as the weather has gone colder and colder I notice that if I give it a squirt when the weather is cold, the 4WD light does go on and I do go into RWD mode, which is worries me a bit.

I have checked the fluid level in the ATTESSA system (in the rear) and checked all the fuses, all look fine......?

No here is the funny thing, if I leave the car in sunlight for 2-3 hours and make sure that the passenger rear section is in the direct sunlight, (where the ATTESSA ECU is), I dont have this issue... wierd eh.

So what i am thinking is that the ATTESSA ECU doesnt like being cold..... WTF?!?!?! That cant be right!

So did a search but cant really find any threads that help out so anyone have any ideas what it could be?

Thanks!

Cy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127099-4wd-light-on-dash/
Share on other sites

have you checked the connector going into the ATTESSA ECU?

it's possible it's gotten wet or something in the past,and has moisture trapped in it that causes connection issues when the car's cold. it could be corroded also.

I'd be checking that out first.

Justin...

yea i will check for minute moister as well. Check the component for the insulation and connections. Probably its dirty or loose.

Also you might want to get a CRC contact cleaner to clean the connecter as well,

Yeah well that wont be happening anytime soon, I just dont have the time :)

But thanks all for the suggestions :)

Perhaps you have the wrong grade fluid in your ATTESSA system or air in the lines perhaps? Do you know if your ATTESSA system was bled correctly?

No I dont, might look into bleeding it properly, I am sure there must be instructions somewhere on SAu to do it :)

Also what type/grade of fluid should I be putting into it? I just assumed that it was just power steering fluid? But I have not had to top it up at all yet, as fluid level in it sits nicely between Min and Max. Should I buy some and fill it up to Max?

nissan transmatic D is the fluid (regular auto tranny fluid)

i used Castrol Transmax Z synthetic auto fluid which castrol reccomends for the attessa system.

nissan fluid is like $30 a bottle and the castrol fully synthetic stuff is $65 or something.

sydneykid is this castrol transmax z good for the attessa system or would u stick with genuine nissan auto fluid?

heres the info on the castrol transmax z oil from their website...

"Castrol Transmax Z is a high quality fully synthetic automatic transmission fluid for use in both automotive and commercial vehicle applications.

Transmax Z has outstanding cold flow properties for responsive and smoother gear change at all ambient temperatures and load conditions. Transmax Z has outstanding high temperature performance with premium oxidative and thermal stability. This provides excellent transmission cleanliness and durability permitting extended drain intervals and decreased servicing.

The optimized frictional characteristics found in Castrol Transmax Z can contribute to improved fuel economy, reduced power loss and lower operating temperatures.

SAE 70W-80 API GL3/GL4 "

cheers

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner

A similar topic has been brought up in another thread.

The reason your 4wd light is coming on is because the ECU is telling you that it has detected a problem in your ATTESSA system - just what the problems is, is anyones guess, but the aforementioned pointers should be a good place to start.

The 4WD light coming on does NOT mean it is in 4WD - just the opposite, which is why you only get RWD.

I find it inwardly amusing that you mentioned its getting colder in Rocky --- what from 25 down to 20 !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...