Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

carrillo's just seem a huge step up... i mean there's the 350rwkw and then there's like the carrillo's at 600rwkw... we need to find a 450rwkw rod. 350rwkw is easy to reach with a 3lt block and 450 is a happy medium, high enough power to be very reliable, but not so high that you are spending mega bucks

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah i'm interested in the chevy ones too... i think that carillo rods are a bit beyond what i'm aiming for. I'm going for plenty of low-mid range power rather than all out topend. And once you pass the 320rwkw or so, the gearbox and other parts start to need looking at and i can't afford to do that!

Ah well Im aiming for 450rwkw at arounf 1.0-1.2 bar, If i get power hungry I want to make sure I done need to gringe every time I give the car a boot full, so Carrillos are the way I am going besides at around $1100 + machinng which is around $600 your not far off $2,400 for the carrillos, and if you do ever need to rebuild you can just buy one carrillo not 8!!!

The 2.5, 2.6 and 3.0 rods are all different in length. You will need to decide what capacity you want the 3.0 will make the same power at lower rpm and it will tend to last longer. If you go 3 litre then I assume as you, me and GiHOr33 will want RB30 Carrillos we will get a fair discount

Jordan

Update: Ive was given a hint. I found Oliver rods they said that they would suit a supercharged small block making 1100HP at 8,200 rpm. This is the same cylinder presure as a RB30/31 making 750/800Hp so hence they say these will do they are $125 US a rod which makes a set $1,500 Australian, allot cheaper than Carrillo what i want to know is how good they are, maching to make them suit will cost around $400 i guess so $1900 all up

Sydnekid or anyone else know about these rods and how good they are???

GR8NES/700

Hi GR8NES, what do I know about Oliver...........

* Oliver make good stuff, been around a long time

* used a lot in Nascar

* the rods are "I" beam

* they come standard with ARP rod bolts

* I think it's Trust that sell rebadged Oliver rods (and charge twice as much)

* they make forged and billet rods in three weights, standard, lightweight and super lightweight

* a set of 6 light weight, forged "I" beam, unmachined rods with 7/16 ARP 8740 rod bolts should be around $A1200 plus freight

* for about $A15 per rod extra you can upgrade to the ARP 2000 3/8 rod bolts

* my personal preference is their standard weight, billet, "I" beam, unmachined rod with 7/16 ARP 8740 rod bolts. Used them in a couple of Chevy speedway engines, no problems.

Never used them in a Skyline engine, but no reason why they would not be OK for the job.

Hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The jack pad placement always had me scratching my head. I only have a small section to work with on both the E90 and E70 (and insert new project car here ) and I could see lining it up to be a bit of a bugger. For me, the E90 is just too low and needs small ramps and then the front centre jack point is a bit tricky to line up (it's half way down the subframe and about the size of a tennis ball, its really hard to see unless your head is on the ground), so I definitely like the idea of not having to do a multi-stage jack and just sliding these bad boys in under the sides. There's only one small point at each corner, so I can't jack AND add a stand on the same corner. Or, maybe I can and I'm too nervous to try. 😟
    • Is this not the biggest deal of all? I was hoping the whole "will slide under cars with skirts etc and lift evenly quickly with minimal fuss" was the entire point of such a device? 
    • Here's Neil's car up on mine recently
    • Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist  It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do.  No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.
    • Finally addressing my catch can and oil setup Plan is to do as much as practical without having to remove the motor or pull it apart. (no back of head to sump drain/breather or oil restrictors) First step is a set of full length baffle plates from Hypertune and a Tomei cam cap stud kit. I could probably have laser cut and bent up my own ones but this took any guess work out
×
×
  • Create New...