Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before I begin, I'll just say that I've searched the forums all over the net for days now, and have addressed all the possible issues that might cause this, and still no luck. I've tried swapping coils, gapping the plugs tighter, hardwired the coilpacks, replacing the ignitor, added HKS Twin Power Ignition DLI, looked for boost leaks, and the list goes on and on....NO LUCK! If I run more than 21psi, I get a misfire, less and it's ok. What else could this possibly be? The mods on the car are as follows...GT35R w/Tial 38mm WG, built shortblock, Nismo AFPR, Walbro 255 FP (Hardwired), Nismo 550's, AEM EMS dynotuned. The car has a PERFECT tune in it across the board. It's running 11.6 A/F at WOT, and the partial throttle is perfect. It's also running speed density, so no more MAF in the car. It has 3.5 bar AEM sensor, with IAT sensor. The car is making good power, right at 450whp on 22psi with pump gas (93 octane in the US). I'm not sure what else to do. Are the stock coils up to the task of 21+psi? Are splitfires any better for sustaining higher boost? What else could possibly cause a misfire like this? I've even put C16 race fuel in the car, as a shot in the dark, to see if it would smooth it out, but still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127135-annoying-misfire-rb25det/
Share on other sites

I know this may sound dumb but mine had a similar problem. Check ur cranck angle sensor. If it in the middle or is it set to devance. Mine was on devance and was doing the whole missfire thing. Move it to advance and it was fine

Clockwise=Devance

Anticlockwise=Advance

Just though id let u know. C how u go

on another note similar to carl h's you dont have your breathers returned into your instake like std do you? If there is any oil there it will be returning back into your intake possibly causing a miss.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...