Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am looking at building an engine for a project over the coming months, and was wondering where in brisbane to send my rb20 block to be machined and bored? I know there is Headsense for porting and flowing the head, but the rest i havent been able to find.

If anyone knows of mahine shops who do this type of work can you let me know?

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by murrayis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127183-workshop-info/
Share on other sites

hey champ i can tell u not to go to *******, there prob not really what ur looking for but if u took a cheap option don't go there, i know of too many stuff ups on their behalf, sure the'll fix problems but not cover ur labour time.

EDIT: No public defaming of workshops, yes it sucks but that's the way it is - Revhead

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127183-workshop-info/#findComment-2352693
Share on other sites

cost depends on how much u want done. you defintly want the bore machined to get the ridge removed, you can get the top surface of the block machined so its all the same height & better compression, you can get the crankshaft tunnels machined to fix twisting of the block but thats very x'y and i doubt youll notice the difference. I'm assuming your getting new cams so you dont have to worry about that but you can also get your crank machined to eliminate ovality and taper but if you can find a bigger crank maybe out of a rb30 or something along with longer and stronger con rods you wont get a longer stroke but youll get more mechanical advantage hence more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127183-workshop-info/#findComment-2371073
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
×
×
  • Create New...