Jump to content
SAU Community

Melb R32 Gtr For Sale


Recommended Posts

I am in the interested in the car, the graphs have concerned me sommewhat though.

How does it drive on the street? ie laggy? full boost by 5600rpm or roughly thereabouts - seems a bit laggy for GTRS' or is this normal for this type of set-up?. Could this be due to the cam profile (272's) being used?

Is that the final tune? AFR's dont seem steady across the range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am in the interested in the car, the graphs have concerned me sommewhat though.

How does it drive on the street? ie laggy? full boost by 5600rpm or roughly thereabouts - seems a bit laggy for GTRS' or is this normal for this type of set-up?. Could this be due to the cam profile (272's) being used?

Is that the final tune? AFR's dont seem steady across the range.

If you have been in any other GTRs I gaurantee you compared to this on it is not laggy. On the dyno is one thing on the road is another as it feels like no lag at all. With this much power you would not want full boost any lower or the thing would not be drivable. This is only a start as in tune. The motor was planned and built for big boost not a miserable 22psi... Honestly if I was to keep the car I would get a 4inch FMC then 2x Z32 airflows and more boost say 30psi everyday and 35psi when you wanna play...... :(

everyone who been in the car says it is definitley not laggy.... very responsive

as for AFR you got to compare what values are on top and bottom they printed it very large so it seems not as steady as some but like i said this was not supposed to be it. Only left it like this cause lost of licence no point Geeing myself up and playing with it more noing I cant drive it anymore. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have been in any other GTRs I gaurantee you compared to this on it is not laggy. On the dyno is one thing on the road is another as it feels like no lag at all. With this much power you would not want full boost any lower or the thing would not be drivable. This is only a start as in tune. The motor was planned and built for big boost not a miserable 22psi... Honestly if I was to keep the car I would get a 4inch FMC then 2x Z32 airflows and more boost say 30psi everyday and 35psi when you wanna play...... :(

everyone who been in the car says it is definitley not laggy.... very responsive

as for AFR you got to compare what values are on top and bottom they printed it very large so it seems not as steady as some but like i said this was not supposed to be it. Only left it like this cause lost of licence no point Geeing myself up and playing with it more noing I cant drive it anymore. :P

Thats fair enough. 35psi is alot of boost but hey if the motor can handle it, why not?

what AFM's and intercooler is it running now?

your not planning any trips to Sydney are you, this is exactly what I was after. A white GTR, with a built motor and great power, makes it very hard when you are in another state :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats fair enough. 35psi is alot of boost but hey if the motor can handle it, why not?

what AFM's and intercooler is it running now?

your not planning any trips to Sydney are you, this is exactly what I was after. A white GTR, with a built motor and great power, makes it very hard when you are in another state :(

Standard AFM and 3inch FMC Its the only two things holding it back. As for a trip to syd??? I wish I cant even drive around here how am i supposed to get up there. If you looking for a good car this could be the one maybe you should get a one way ticket (virgin air) under $100 one way. 2hours later you could be driving home.

Seriously I have spent make that OVER spent on this car and how ever gets it will be a lucky person as there have been no short cuts at all...

A 32 GTR is a 32 GTR people forget that alot of the ones for sale out there will need a rebuild soon as people tend to trash them and it will cost them at least 8g just for a standard rebuild that on top of the 20g you got the car makes 28g for a standard car???????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I ask what fuel rail you are running?

From the photo, it looks standard with standard fuel regulator?

Also, what suspension is it running?

Tried ringing you but message says you're unavailable.

Contact me.

Like I said it got a modified fuel rail. I bought a billet but it was not that good so my mechanic just modified the original one so it has a much bigger inlet and it flows more than plenty so there was no need to chase down another rail. As to contact me I am currently unavailable in the mornings and can be contacted afer 1pm everyday...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...