Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cubes,

Thanks for the excellent explanation. I wasn't too sure about the timing, but just noticed that it seemed less at full throttle. It makes sense what you are saying now.

With the injector ms, what would i look for? I have attached the plot of the injectors, and seems they aren't making a big jump either so I would say no R&R, I just didnt really understand what it was before :(

As for the temp, it gets to about 70 within about 3-4 mins of driving. In the warmer weather however it did go up the guage more (didnt have consult then) and would guess it was more about the 80-85 mark I think. This is leading me to think the thermostat is a rather cold one. It definately has a thermostat, as when cold you can feel no flow (pressure) in the top hose, but once warm there is definately flow (and can see it with the cap off).

For general running the O2 sensor fluctuates a lot, so I'm fairly certain that is operating as expected.

post-13651-1182733787_thumb.jpg

Have done some searching regarding Resistor in line with the AFM circuit.

Now the argument I have read is that you won't get any more "flow" out the the AFM if you are maxing it out, and Z32 is your best bet. I can sort of understand this, but I fail to see why this wouldn't help with the rich running of the stock ECU if it's not maxing out? IF it puts out lower volts accross the whole range, then should it not think "less airflow, less fuel"?? ie. in my case, the AFM is 4.7V at max load, and obviously fuelling accordingly. If the volts were dropped to around 4.0 or similar (with a check on a dyno) surely this would help?

If I am missing something, can someone please explain it to me?

Edited by Hotwire

I agree that putting a resistor in will make it run leaner, but dont forget what Adriano said earlier - the AFM's response is not linear, so if you use a resistor (which is linear) you will stuff up the signal in the rest of the curve to "fix" it in the part you're looking at. That's why you use a piggy back instead. Its a clever resistor that tweaks the signal by different amounts for different inputs.

BTW - i'm guessing, hopefully someone that knows can confirm/deny!

pretty much what i would have said - resistor alters AFM voltage linearly, but the AIR->Voltage relationship is not linear. youd probably mess up your idle, amongst other things (ie making certain regions too lean and risking engine damage, detonation, etc).

btw, is there any form of adjustment screw on the AFM?

I know there used to be an adjustment screw on my R31 AFM (bosch unit) however Im not sure about the R33 AFM. Would be interesting to know if there is an adjustment pot, but I probably wouldn't mess with it myself. The car is going to Boostworx in a couple of weeks for a new water pump. I'll speak to Shaun and get him to do what he can (not that i'm expecting much)

  • 1 month later...

Old thread but didn't want to start another one about damn AFM's.

My R33 stock AFM went to 5.06v on 8-9 psi stock turbo, PFC. Is this okay? does idle at 1.2v

Test was done in 1st and 2nd gear only to 6500rpm.

  • 2 months later...

yeah, i got an apexi neo fitted, found out on my second tune that my o2 sensor died..

and my second tune was only two days after my first tune =(

coz a day after my first tune, i drove to my mates den after i went to leave, can i couldnt pass 2500rpms..so i had to reset my afc/apexi neo to drive...

after my first tune..my car felt so good!used no fuel..

second tune was screwed..coz they had to tune it witout the 02 sensor being connected..

so after that i just chug'd fuel!

got a new o2 sensor...

but still didnt improve dat much..

found out the second tune..done by a different place..

tune my air map settings from lik +8% to +12%..on some high throttle rpms..

so i adjusted these settings

runs so good now, i get lik 430k's outa my 50L tank..lol

could run a bit betta, but good other things to fix..

wats ur a/f read at idle?just curious...

Old thread but didn't want to start another one about damn AFM's.

My R33 stock AFM went to 5.06v on 8-9 psi stock turbo, PFC. Is this okay? does idle at 1.2v

Test was done in 1st and 2nd gear only to 6500rpm.

Nothing to worry about. RB25 AFM maxes out at 5.1V

I'm still on the stock turbo running 12psi and it only just hits over 5000mv.

Thats however 700m above sea level where the air is thinner. Take it down the hill to sea level and it'll hit 5110mv no worries.

At idle its about the same as yours..1100mv-1200mv.

ah..huh??

na, im going off wat the apexi neo says..its not in volts...

its air flow %..

The apexi neo is a AFM signal bender. It gets the air flow signal and warps it so the stock ecu says "oh that looks ok".

The Power FC reads air flow as it is, which is in mV. It doesn't bend the signal because it doesn't have to trick anything.

I haven't seen a neo before but maybe those %'s your seeing is air flow correction figures.

Edited by KeyMaker
The apexi neo is a AFM signal bender. It gets the air flow signal and warps it so the stock ecu says "oh that looks ok".

The Power FC reads air flow as it is, which is in mV. It doesn't bend the signal because it doesn't have to trick anything.

I haven't seen a neo before but maybe those %'s your seeing is air flow correction figures.

no its a got a "correction %" view/display aswell...on idle thats at -12%..

and my idle is perfect! no jumps or hunts..lol

and i got a atmo bov too..

na, its def. A/F %, which is air flow %..so on idle thats reads 2.5-2.6%..

but it doesnt display A/F voltage...

it does display voltage thou, but i believe this only battery volts..coz its like always round 13.4-14volts

Edited by bumble_bee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...