Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just had my VG30DETT rebuilt and have added Sard 650 injectors.

Originally used stock 320's and on the dyno it made 268.5 @ 16psi with a good fuel map.

Now I need to change the fuel (flow?) % , as the sards are close to twice the size,

so I can get it to the tuners, about 30km's.

I use a Microtech LTX12 with the in-car dash display and I was wondering if

anyone has experience with these ecu's and/or can offer some advise.

Cheers. :(

I have just had my VG30DETT rebuilt and have added Sard 650 injectors.

Originally used stock 320's and on the dyno it made 268.5 @ 16psi with a good fuel map.

Now I need to change the fuel (flow?) % , as the sards are close to twice the size,

so I can get it to the tuners, about 30km's.

I use a Microtech LTX12 with the in-car dash display and I was wondering if

anyone has experience with these ecu's and/or can offer some advise.

Cheers. :P

You can take a global percentage out, its called the Mix trim. Because they are twice as big doesn't mean they flow twice as much at low pulse widths so just take out 30% and see how you go. You might struggle with those injectors using a microtech economy wise.

Thanks guys for the heads up.

Satanic, these are side feeds and high imp, I think yours would be top feeders and low imp.

don't forget to get the lag time figure for them too.

Richard, WTF is the lag time? :)

lag time/latencey/response time is meaured in mili seconds. different injectors have a different lag time. you need to find out what stock is, and what the sards are. or in your case you may just need the figures for the sards. it's important that they have the correct lag time inputted into the ecu to run properly.

Microtech doesn't have a lag time adjustment, you just tune it in milliseconds

lag time/latencey/response time is meaured in mili seconds. different injectors have a different lag time. you need to find out what stock is, and what the sards are. or in your case you may just need the figures for the sards. it's important that they have the correct lag time inputted into the ecu to run properly.
Microtech doesn't have a lag time adjustment, you just tune it in milliseconds

cheers. so does that mean you just tune and compensate for it, or do you just need to enter in the lag time figure for the injectors you are using?

Thanks Beer Baron and Adriano, I think I get it, I'll speak to Boosted Zed.

Adrian, the Sards cost me $660 delivered through Greenline and

the collars were $120 for the set including o-rings and hex bolts in

a G/B on aus300zx forum. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...