Metal Shavings In Engine Oil

[ROB32T]

I agrea with mac

[TTT]

I change it every 5000k's with genuine Nissan 7.5 - 30w oil and oil filter. Internals are standard, but have been running a GT2871r @ 16psi for the last 5000k's or so.

The motor in question is an RB20 silvertop from a R32 that had approx 110,000k's on it.

What does Nissan say about 15 year old engines with “apparent” 110,000kms on it?

Also, does Nissan say that when running a turbo capable of almost double the factory turbo’s air flow ability, still requires the same sort of lubrication?

AND, does Nissan say that this 15 year old engine will have the same condition rings, seals, bearings as it did back in 1991 when it produced 160kw with 10psi of boost running through it, even though now it has 110,000kms (apparently), using a big turbo, much more boost/air flow/pressure.

NO. Lets not get in to an oil sh*t fight.

But lets think logically.. we are men after all and should be this way from birth.

Machine gets used, it has wear and tear.

Machine is made to run harder/faster, it has wear and tear.

Machine gets a bigger pump on it, making it work even harder, hold more pressure, it has wear and tear on it.

The addition of the turbo, boost, revs, pressure, etc…. all add to the heat as well.

Nissans own mineral 7.5 – 30W does not cut it… Surely you can see this. It’s logic.

Have you actually asked Nissan what oil they recommend for your 15 year old high km motor running substantial more power and boost?

I doubt very much they will say 7.5 – 30w mineral blend oil.

You said yourself that you change the oil every 5000kms and have not seen anything like this before.

Then you say this new turbo has been on there for 5000kms and this oil change it has.

1+1 = 2 man.. you added the turbo and upped the power and the oil did not cut it and as said, bearings have been damaged.

On a side note, I hope nothing is broken and it was just stuff that was in your sump from something before and the new found pressure from this turbo has got it loose and made it come out with the oil.

On an even better side note, CAPITAN RB20 ROY on these forums will tell you over and over that a rb20 short block costs $400 these days.

So if your breaks, you are up for about $1000 to get new bottom end, engine out and fit to head and engine back in and good to go.

Hopefully, when it comes to that, you will reconsider your choice in oils.

Everyone will have there preferred brand.. Mine is Castrol EDGE fully synthetic 10-60W

Next time you go in to supercheap or something, just have a look at the back of the oils and compare them.

Good luck and I hope this isn’t a costly experience for you.

Edited July 26, 2006 by GTST