Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Got some issues with my S2 R33 GTST, done a bit of a search and I'm thinking maybe an exhaust leak (as per this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=ticking).

I actually think I might have a couple of problems, but these are the symptoms. Firstly, not sure if this is related, but since I've had the car (about 6 weeks, but due to a broken window only on the road around 1.5 weeks of that) I've been having shuddering and misses at WOT; however, throttle of say .75 pulls pretty smoothly up to redline (maybe a slight hesitation sometimes). I was thinking this was probably more of a tune thing (running a Wolf3D ecu) or maybe sparks/coils.

Anyway, the other night I noticed a slight ticking coming from the right hand side of the engine bay (right hand side from driver's point of view, so left hand side if looking into bonnet), but I didn't think too much of it. The next morning I drove the car into my local Nissan service place to get them to put in my new window, and on the drive over there didn't notice anything amiss, though I doubt I hit boost and it was a short drive.

When I picked up the car that evening, as soon as I got into the car I knew something was wrong. The exhaust note was different (normally very quiet but now had a strong bass element) and on idle the car would vibrate strongly. When driving home, the car's boost wouldn't hold steady most of the time, and one time I even hit redline in first without building any boost at all. Strangely though it would occasionally boost fine, and when it did I think the exhaust note went back to normal.

Next day when I jumped in and started the car the ticking was now very loud and quite fast, both at idle and under load. The exhaust now "pulses", and has a very strong petrol smell. I haven't driven it since. My first impression that it was actually a mechanical sound (i.e. something clipping something else), my mate thought maybe electrical, but after searching it sounds like maybe it's a blown exhaust gasket.

Anyway, two questions. Firstly, does this sound about right for an exhaust gasket? Secondly, would it be safe to drive my car to a mechanic/exhaust place (off boost, obviously), or am I looking at towing? Not feeling up to attempting to DIY at this point. I'd really appreciate any input, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127415-exhaust-leak/
Share on other sites

That sounds just like an exhaust leak pre turbo, so either head to exhaust manifold or manifold to turbo gasket. No harm in driving it to get it fixed.

Good to hear, thanks for that. Should any workshop be able to fix it up for me off the bat or am I going to need to source original Nissan parts myself? Any ballpark figure on labour? Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127415-exhaust-leak/#findComment-2355967
Share on other sites

any mechanic should be able to do it..heaps of aftermarket gaskets around...alot of people make their own. I think nissan ones are like 30 bux or thereabouts. Being generous 2hrs to change the gasket. never been to a performance workshop before but guess on $/phr would be around $70...so maybe $140 all up not including parts. Thats a complete guess outta my ass...wonder how close i am? Anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127415-exhaust-leak/#findComment-2356005
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...