Sydneykid Your A Legend

[Kennedy]

Cheers guys. Things are cleared up now. If I was to point the finger I would do this...

Hey Victory,

Just read your post on SK's reccomendations for suspension setup. I was wondering if you had any suspension mods at all? Aftermarket adjustable camber/castor mechanisms? or is it bone stock suspension all round?

Cheers,

Sam

My GTS-T is totally stock in the suspension department and that was my issue. How can just a wheel alignment make that much difference to a car's handling?......

But off course I'm not pointing the finger.

Guess I should have asked more than one person before spending $77.00 on a wheel alignment to only end in a Toe adjustment. Should have just asked SK but I feel guilty everytime I PM him coz I'm sure everyone under the sun asks him for advice all day.

[djr81]

You haven't necessarily wasted any money. It is still important for the toe to be correct & that the rear camber be good. It is pretty common for (Especially the rear) the alignment settings to be rubbish when the cars some in from Japan. Which in turn can wreck your tyres prematurely.

[Victory]

Sydneykid's Recomendations are:

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster 7.00

SAI 9.00

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side

I was able to achieve with my stock suspension:

Front Camber -1.20

Front Caster 6.35

SAI 9.10

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.20

Rear Toe 1.50 mm in on each side

These results are close to the recomendations and will require the adjustable bushes to get that last little bit. My ride heights are also close to the suggested levels of about 25mm lower than stock front ride height of 380mm with 365mm front and 355mm rear.

Kennedy

This was one of my original posts that identified SydneyKids recommendations and what I was able to achieve with my specific car. I also made the comment that every car is a little bit different and when you have had a wheel alignment done you will find out how close your car is to the suggested settings.

Once you know what your car’s settings are then you can decide if you need to buy the caster and camber adjustment kits to get your car closer to the recommended settings

[Kennedy]

So what your saying is that you DO have adjustable castor and/or camber rods in your car. I think it would be best to alter your original post stating something along the lines of....castor and SAI is not adjustable at all via the stock suspension.

[Kennedy]

You haven't necessarily wasted any money. It is still important for the toe to be correct & that the rear camber be good. It is pretty common for (Especially the rear) the alignment settings to be rubbish when the cars some in from Japan. Which in turn can wreck your tyres prematurely.

My point being is that I would have gone out and bought the adjustable camber/castor rods before my wheel alignment so i could have done verything at once rather than having to do go back once I've installed adjustable parts. Wheel alignments arent cheap.

[Beer Baron]

no, his point is he DOESN'T have adjustable anything. those results where what he was able to get with stock suspension.

What were you settings with stock suspension?

[Birnie]

I had a wheel alignment a while ago and they said they had trouble doing the rear because the exhaust tip was gettting in the way of the laser sighting.

Anyone else have that issue?

Is it a issue or do these people not know what they are doing?

Thanks..

Birnie

[Kennedy]

no, his point is he DOESN'T have adjustable anything. those results where what he was able to get with stock suspension.

What were you settings with stock suspension?

I'll have to check the sheet when I got home but I was not able to get anywhere near the settings that Victory was able too.

Victory, can you please post the settings you had BEFORE your wheel aligment? Just so we can see how much in mm/degrees you were able to adjust per area of suspension? I'm gobsmacked as to how you were able to achieve so much castor at the front without castor rods. (Which in turn would affect SAI i think...can someone confirm this?)

What other variables are there that will affect it? Wheel size? Tyre size/width? Perhaps I lost some functionalty when my stock suspension was replaced with coilovers?

[Duncan]

nope, no loss of adjustment, but assuming your new suspension is lower than your old that will affect the camber and castor settings from the standard geometery. As djr81 said it is toe front and rear, and rear camber that you can adjust....and the rear camber adjustment is very limited too.

But if you put in lower shocks you shorten the distance between the upper and lower links which gives you more camber.

If you want to look at adjustable stuff Gary's kits are good, come with everything you need. At a minimum adjustable castor and some swaybars will help a lot - adding camber is not necesarily good for a street car since it affects tyre wear, but castor is fine.

[Victory]

I was able to achieve with my stock suspension:

Front Camber -1.20

Front Caster 6.35

SAI 9.10

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.20

Rear Toe 1.50 mm in on each side

My ride heights are also close to the suggested levels of about 25mm lower than stock front ride height of 380mm with 365mm front and 355mm rear.

I was just very lucky that my car good factory settings of

Front Camber was -1.20 left and -1.15 right

Front Caster was 6.35 left and 6.25 right

Rear camber before -0.22 left and -1.38 right

Rear camber after -0.20 left and -0.59 right

My problems were in the toe -0.5 left and +0.2 right

and rear toe of +0.1 left and -0.8 right

The other important factor to consider is ride height - mine is 365mm front and 355mm rear which is not much lower than the standard 380mm. Skylines do not like being too low as it changes the geometry a lot.

[salad]

howcome youre rear left camber didnt get adjusted?

was there a problem?

[Victory]

That is a good question, it may have been that it was at the maximum negative that it could go.