Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, I just replaced my O2 sensor on my R32 GTS-t with an EL Falcon replacement as reccomended here but it is idling like crap so I unplugged it and it is fine again...

I am guessing that I got the wires wrong.

The R32 Sensor has Black, Red and White

The EL Falcon Sensor has 2 White and a Black.

I am guessing that the black goes to black? The others I just copied the output from the R32 sensor (red was top right and white was top left)

I am guessing I have them wrong, can someone tell me what is what??

Thanks!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127517-el-falcon-o2-sensor-on-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  mad082 said:
i would've been easier to buy a r32 o2 sensor. they are a bit more (about $110 from autobarn for a NGK), but they plug straight in.

How much is R33 o2 sensor from there?

I also heard u can use EL falcon on R33... btw Paul33 might know how to fit them.

My Ford sensor had two white and one black. The black was the signal wire, and the two white were the heater wires.

My R33 plug had the same thing, but different colours. Could have been two black and one red. Can't remember, but they all hooked up fine.

Thanks but I don't think so. once it started playing up (after I put on a new dump pipe), I unplugged it to bypass the problem.

Thanks for the info about the wires. As stated the ford one that I have also has 2 white and 1 black wires.

The r32 sensor has a black, red and white. IS ANYONE ABLE TO TELL ME WHAT IS WHAT??

Thanks for your help so far!

  RANDY said:
Maybe someone adjusted your idle air control valve when your 02 sensor was dead? So when you plug it in, it's running correctly, but your adjustment is outta whack? Dunno. Just a guess.

I would wager a guess that the black and red both go to black, and your white wire goes to the black on on the 02 sensor. Still, dunno... someone will give you the answer though! You definately got the right one for your car, yeah?

Todd even though it is a cop-out, there are only three different ways to connect the sensor, given that the signal wire can only go in three different terminals and the heater wires are irrelevant. (and as Randy said, black = signal, white = heater). If you don't receive an answer, try trial and error and use a voltmeter to test the signal output. If you're in Sydney I can help out with a Consult cable.

As an outside chance, did you reset your ECU after installing? You'll need to clear the fault codes otherwise the ECU will most likely consider the sensor to be still broken and it'll revert to the run-rich ECU maps.

So I am guessing keep it how it is, plug it back in and reset the ECU? If I still have the problem I will try swapping them around!

Would still be great if someone could tell me for sure... surely someone has done this to an R32 before.

Thanks guys!

I've changed my O2 sensor with an EL Ford one as well, my experience with connecting things up was the same as Randy's. After an ECU reset the car ran fine (and still does). :) Would it be fair to say that the middle of the 3 wires is the signal, the other two are the heater wires? (pretty sure that's how mine was).

the el 1 is cheaper, but you have to wire it up.

i haven't done the research, but you have to take into account that if the sensor has different resistance and power then it can give the ecu false readings. for the extra money it is worth sticking with the proper one.

i know that the r33 unit is the same as used in the sr20 in the SSS pulsars and nx coupes (same part number). not sure if the rb20 is the same, but i think it might be.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question.

My car has an aftermarket computer. (Link)

Recently it has suddenly started getting worse fuel economy. Could it be my oxygen sensor, or does my ecu somehow not utilise the factory O2 sensor anymore?

It's probably a basic question, but I'm not mechanically minded!

Please reply, I'm sick of getting ~100kms less per tank then I was a few months ago!

If it's not likely to be the sensor, what else could be causing my sudden pathetic fuel economy? It literally turned bad over night.

Thanks :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...