Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, I just replaced my O2 sensor on my R32 GTS-t with an EL Falcon replacement as reccomended here but it is idling like crap so I unplugged it and it is fine again...

I am guessing that I got the wires wrong.

The R32 Sensor has Black, Red and White

The EL Falcon Sensor has 2 White and a Black.

I am guessing that the black goes to black? The others I just copied the output from the R32 sensor (red was top right and white was top left)

I am guessing I have them wrong, can someone tell me what is what??

Thanks!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127517-el-falcon-o2-sensor-on-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

My Ford sensor had two white and one black. The black was the signal wire, and the two white were the heater wires.

My R33 plug had the same thing, but different colours. Could have been two black and one red. Can't remember, but they all hooked up fine.

Thanks but I don't think so. once it started playing up (after I put on a new dump pipe), I unplugged it to bypass the problem.

Thanks for the info about the wires. As stated the ford one that I have also has 2 white and 1 black wires.

The r32 sensor has a black, red and white. IS ANYONE ABLE TO TELL ME WHAT IS WHAT??

Thanks for your help so far!

Maybe someone adjusted your idle air control valve when your 02 sensor was dead? So when you plug it in, it's running correctly, but your adjustment is outta whack? Dunno. Just a guess.

I would wager a guess that the black and red both go to black, and your white wire goes to the black on on the 02 sensor. Still, dunno... someone will give you the answer though! You definately got the right one for your car, yeah?

Todd even though it is a cop-out, there are only three different ways to connect the sensor, given that the signal wire can only go in three different terminals and the heater wires are irrelevant. (and as Randy said, black = signal, white = heater). If you don't receive an answer, try trial and error and use a voltmeter to test the signal output. If you're in Sydney I can help out with a Consult cable.

As an outside chance, did you reset your ECU after installing? You'll need to clear the fault codes otherwise the ECU will most likely consider the sensor to be still broken and it'll revert to the run-rich ECU maps.

So I am guessing keep it how it is, plug it back in and reset the ECU? If I still have the problem I will try swapping them around!

Would still be great if someone could tell me for sure... surely someone has done this to an R32 before.

Thanks guys!

I've changed my O2 sensor with an EL Ford one as well, my experience with connecting things up was the same as Randy's. After an ECU reset the car ran fine (and still does). :) Would it be fair to say that the middle of the 3 wires is the signal, the other two are the heater wires? (pretty sure that's how mine was).

the el 1 is cheaper, but you have to wire it up.

i haven't done the research, but you have to take into account that if the sensor has different resistance and power then it can give the ecu false readings. for the extra money it is worth sticking with the proper one.

i know that the r33 unit is the same as used in the sr20 in the SSS pulsars and nx coupes (same part number). not sure if the rb20 is the same, but i think it might be.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question.

My car has an aftermarket computer. (Link)

Recently it has suddenly started getting worse fuel economy. Could it be my oxygen sensor, or does my ecu somehow not utilise the factory O2 sensor anymore?

It's probably a basic question, but I'm not mechanically minded!

Please reply, I'm sick of getting ~100kms less per tank then I was a few months ago!

If it's not likely to be the sensor, what else could be causing my sudden pathetic fuel economy? It literally turned bad over night.

Thanks :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...