Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I fitted a cushion ceramic button clutch and from day one it 's had a shudder.

It's accompanied by a thud under the car.

I've been told a slight shudder is normal but the clutch builder has driven my car and said there is something wrong.

My mechanic has checked my engine mounts and rear cradle bushes and nothing is broken.

The only thing we can think of that could be causing it is the tailshaft centerbearing rubber mount but it too seems to be in good condition.

Would a one piece tailshaft fix it or does the problem lie elsewhere?

Has anyone else had these issues?

That sounds very similar to what is happening with my GTR R32 at the moment. Hard to locate the noise, but I think it might be coming from the rear cradle bushes.

Would appreciate it if you could let me know how you go... sorry I cant help!

With thanks,

Danni

  • 2 weeks later...

got the same problem. does it alot when reversing or taking off up a hill.

i done a manual conversion and put in a extreme clutch. seems to make a bit of axle tramp when putting the power down too. i put it down to the clutch grabbing harder and faster causing a pulse (like a ripple) down the tailshaft.

i have and had these problems, first the clutch i got a full brass button in/out and the shutter is just normal just the flywheel is warped a little bit not a big problem is normal so dont stress, ive had my cluch for over a yr and sometmes it still shutters but just ride it a bit more, second if the center bearings a gone the car vibrates when at about 80 or 90kph but mine was vibrating at these speed and it was the rear rubber seal of the tailsharft is twisted not the center bearing or universals

cheers

got the same problem. does it alot when reversing or taking off up a hill.

i done a manual conversion and put in a extreme clutch. seems to make a bit of axle tramp when putting the power down too. i put it down to the clutch grabbing harder and faster causing a pulse (like a ripple) down the tailshaft.

Yes, mine is particularly bad reversing or trying to take off gently up a hill.

My centerbearing rubber appears to be in excellent condition but it still feels as though the tailshaft kicks with each shudder.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...