Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

increased fuel consumption, also using a 1GZE SC is like using a stock trubocharger off a GTSt. Unless u go for a $6000 vortech/eaton centrifugal supercharger (which is like puttin a T88 on ya GTSt) you'll never get optimal results out of a supercharger.

The reason Nissan never came out with em is that in small capacity cars (3.0L and under) its not completely efficient.

if u do consider supercharge

the car will be be more like a 4.0L aussie six

plenty of torque and power, but power wont peak that high in the rev range as our cars currently do.

u can get SC that can rev and stay someone efficient at the higher revs, but it also cost money

not necessarily, those are the oldschool superchargers that work better at higher revs.

If you look at the boost charts, the turbo charger has an exponential boost (very low boost for initial phase and very high boost after the sweet spot). A supercharger however is belt driven, ie constant. It has a linear looking chart, therefore you'd have better midrange boost than a turbo, and much better pickup at the lower end. You do however have to tune it so you don't overboost at higher revs.

eg: say hypothetically your max boost is 14psi

REVS.-> 0 . 1000 ..2000 . 3000 . 4000 . 5000 . 6000 . 7000

SC.....-> 0 ... 1 ...... 4 ...... 6 ...... 8 ..... 10 .... 12 .... 14

TURB.-> 0 ... 0.5 .... 1 ...... 2 ...... 4 ...... 8 ..... 11 .... 14

however true linearity is only achieved by centrifugal superchargers (I think, not sure) and thems the more expensive ones.

Oh and as for the q about the ECU having to be modded... NFI, I gave up and decided to go for a GTR b4 I could investigate it.

there are companies which specialise in superchargers. go through your yellow pages and find one and given them a call and have a chat about your options. i'm sure they will let you know all that you have to do.

SC can't be too bad of an idea if mercedes chooses them over turbo's. also many american professional drag cars use superchargers because of their low-down torque and power.

would be great to see a SC skyline zoom past any gtst and do well against a gtr!

u gotta spend sum serious cash for that. The company I wastaling to was adelaide based, and they specialised in supercharging civics and the like, so I gave em a buzz... think they were working on a supra at the time, either doin a super/turbo twinny or a straight super, sumfin liek that, they were the ones that gave me quotes for manifold fabrication n stuff.

I got their email at home, I'll post it when i get back from work

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Donut tried them out, they were fine as long as the bolt or nut wasn’t very tight 
    • It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here. 
    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
×
×
  • Create New...