Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my r33 gtst needs to pass an EPA test and to do so i need to have standard boost control parts running. at the moment i have a duel stage boost controller and it runs fine with the duel stage. when i put the vac lines to the standard controller it overboosts. can someone tell me what vac lines need to go where? also i have made sure the plug that comes from the standard controller is plugged in and i have even tried another one from a mates car. could the wiring for the standard controller be used for the aftermarket unit? if so what should i be testing for with the multi meter? the after market controller has an earth wire and a wire running through the firewall and i cant see if the wire from the standard plug has been cut as it dissapears into a loom. any help would be much appreciated. thanks, brad (also my car has a standard turbo,FMIC and at the moment the airbox is fitted and i have checked for vaccum leaks)

Edited by NVMYTG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127617-help-needed-epa-test-troubles/
Share on other sites

You won't need a multimeter... the standard solanoid should give 5psi if it's not working properly, and 7psi if it is.

I suggest that your plumbing is not quite right... from the intake pipe down the bottom, the pipe should come into the bottom of the solanoid (I think.. if not, switch them around), and then the top one goes to your wastegate actuator.

i treid the lines both ways but i was a little worried id do some damage can anybody confirm which way they are supposed to go? also id like to know what im looking for with a multimeter with the wires coming from the solinoid as i said before i tried the vac lines both ways and i even tried another solinoid from my mates car which i know works.

from memory one of the lines was running to a T peice, also one line had a little restrictor in it, if thats not in the right place that may cause your problem.

Let me work out what needs to go where cos im in the exact same boat as you, i have a dual stage boost controller installed and i need to put the standard one back on so i can get it trough RoadWorthy.

Ok here is what i worked out on how to properly install the stock boost controller.

First off there is a hose from the actuator goin to a T peice, its only short and it has a yellow band on it because it has a brass restrictor in it.

From the T peice it goes to the BOV retuirn pipe.

Then from the T peice it goes to the bottom of the boost controller.

The last is a straight hose goin from the intercoller pipe to the top of the boost controller.

Can someone please confirm this for me, i just want to be %100 sure.

I mainly want to know if the restrictor is in the short hose coming off the actuator and goin to the T peice.

I hjope this helps, im %99 sure this is right which i would love someone to confirm this all for me ..

no thats wrong.

(if you have a front mount there will be a hose from the bov pressure line (the vacuum hose that opens the bov) instead of the intercooler pipe)

there should be hose hose from an intercooler pipe. this goes to a T piece. from the T piece there should be 1 hose going to the wastegate, and 1 to the lower hose of the factory solenoid. the top hose of the solenoid should go back to the intake (bov plumback pipe).

Edited by mad082

Ok this is straight from the Nissan Fast program, so thjere is no disputing it.

Top of the boost controller goes straight to the wastegate.

The bottom goes to the T peice.

One side of the T peice goes straight to the intercooler pipe.

The other side of the T peice goes straight to the BOV return plumbing.

Thats it, 100%..

I also found a picture in another thread showing the stock setup i described.

The restrictor is in the short hose goin from the intercooler pipe to the T peice, make sure you have the restrictor in place.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=45802

Edited by Mick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just buy a BMW if you want that... You can then choose whatever engine of theirs you want 😛
    • Clear vinyl wrap or clear coat? 
    • There really needs to be an ODBII item that can play intake noise through speakers, synchronized with your current RPM and TPS%.
    • Worth most of the $50k alone!
    • So, we now have a straight and clean boot lid inbound and the car goes in for paint, again, on Wednesday, and will be ready on Friday, all ready to get cams and stuff on Monday  And by straight and clean.....I mean a brand new OEM one that cost..... $1300....😪 Sadly there's no clean undamaged used soft top version available, plenty for the power retractable hard top versions though, which is arse and makes Mark have the sads I could have waited longer, until a NC sort top boot lid eventually turned up, but I'm sick of waiting and said fark it and made it rain cash, meh In other naturally aspirated news, one of the guys at work brought in his old Corola which had a 4AGE in it, really nice clean car with lots of mods, including ITB's, man that things induction noise sounds sick with all of the dorts that makes you smile......maybe the NC needs ITB's, yeah, basically for the noise they make, but they're pretty expensive, but, they sound so damn good I may bring this up when I drop the car up on Monday, and by may, I mean I will🤣🤑🤪🤣
×
×
  • Create New...