Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Short and simple, drivers side window doesn’t work! I have tried and searched the forum and nothing.

It all started when I put my window down one time, put them back up on auto and when it reached the top it made rattling sounds. I then removed the panel to investigate and found that it worked again. Then it stopped. Checked the little black box and that seems to be working alright but when I try to use the window, nothing all I get is the click sound from the black box.

Any help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128114-window-not-working/
Share on other sites

Before you spend money on a new window amp (the black box), open it up and look on the bottom of the circuit board.

If there are any dry solder points, theres your problem. The solder will have seperated from the circuit board and the signal will not be making it to the window.

Just drop a lil bit of solder onto it and should be sweet.

ok well the black blox circuit seems to be ok, i mean then you press the down button or up the solinoids seem to make a connection along with a clickin sound just like on the passanger side, so im guessing its my actual motor.

My box clicked every time I pressed the button, I thought it was the motor too. But the dry solder point on my circuit board was one of the outgoing prongs of the plug. So the signal was getting into the box, the switch would activate, but then the signal couldn't get out of the box again to tell the window to move.

if you're hearing a click every time you push the button and nothing happens its usually the window amp. before you go off and buy a new one, open it up and clean it. use some contact cleaner and get in there with a clean cloth and clean the surfaces.

if that doesnt work then get a new one. last i checked they were around $15 -$20 from a wrecker.

before you go and buy a motor, check if there is any power getting to it with a multimeter.

so what should I do take it to an auto electrician and get them to have a look at it?

Have you opened the box yet? Relatively easy to spot a dry solder point if you know what your looking for. 99% of the time this is the problem, or dirty contacts, as mentioned above.

when i had this prob i could get my window to go up and down IF i physically lifted the window and operated the switch. try this. take the weight of the glass off the mechinism inside and operate the window. if it works, its most likely the motor. apparently fairly common fault as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
×
×
  • Create New...