Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

even better chuck on the std BOV, they're pretty good until you start running high boost levels.

maybe i got something diff but what ever i removed to install the aftermarket BOV never made any sound. all i ever herd was the turbo whine

OMG - The flutter sound does not come from the BOV....It just means your aftermarket BOV is set too tightly and most of the air is reversing back through the turbo getting chopped up by the impeller hence the 'flutter' sound...You couldn't hear it b4 because your airbox muffled the sound.

Sure? I wanted to confirm what was making this noise the other day and watched my blow-off valve open and close repeatedly after opening the throttle small amounts and then closing it. The flutter was coming from the blow-off valve, and it makes sense from an engineering point of view.

Lowering the spring tension would allow the valve to open completely at lower pressures and not 'bounce' between open and closed. That might fix it for you.

I've currently got no BOV at all (blocked off the hole in the intake), I can still hear the psshht and then flutter. Is the sound of the air 'blowing off' just the rush of air coming back out the pod?

What i'm saying is it's not necessarily air running back through the intake (if you have a BOV). Primordial in your case it'll just be air rushing back and doing funny things :happy:. You can check for yourself though, just pop the bonnet, rev your car and see if you can feel air coming out of the filter and match it to whatever noise you hear.

Edited by govich

This is basicly what ^ said with some instructions.

Make sure car is off... Take off the blue hose from the BOV and undo the bolt with the red circle around it one revolution. Then reconect the Blue hose. Start car and test. Repeat all steps until you are satified.

post-19015-1154349934.jpg

Sure? I wanted to confirm what was making this noise the other day and watched my blow-off valve open and close repeatedly after opening the throttle small amounts and then closing it. The flutter was coming from the blow-off valve, and it makes sense from an engineering point of view.

Still caused from a surge buddy. Noise comes from pod and sometimes bov.

Still caused from a surge buddy. Noise comes from pod and sometimes bov.

My blow-off valve bounces between open and closed (this is visually obvious), air comes out of it and this makes a fluttering noise. There is no other audible fluttering or whooshing associated with the air, from the pod or otherwise.

Flutter is NOT caused by the BOV! I had no BOV for a month, fluttered like no tomorrow... Now I've got the stock BOV back on (with some mods) and I get both the flutter and PSSSSSHHHHTTT

Jeeez; it's just a sound!

Flutter is NOT caused by the BOV! I had no BOV for a month, fluttered like no tomorrow... Now I've got the stock BOV back on (with some mods) and I get both the flutter and PSSSSSHHHHTTT

Jeeez; it's just a sound!

OK.

With the stock blow-off valve on, my car does not flutter. At all. Ever.

With the aftermarket atmospheric-vent blow-off valve, the car flutters on trailing throttle or after closing the throttle after light openings. I have visually confirmed this sound as coming from the blow-off valve bouncing open and closed.

If the throttle is closed after being open wide, the blow-off valve dumps completely and there is no flutter. At all. Just whoosh.

How is the noise (in my car) not coming from the blow-off valve bouncing open and closed?

I'm not posting about this again :cheers:.

I had the exact same GFB BOV and it fluttered even thbough all pipes were connected and closed off. The flutter IS due to ur BOV. Read the manuell, it says flutter at low rpm is normal, u can probably eliminate is by following the advice other guys gave u.

Edited by Sir-D

An aftermarket BOV is probably a lot tighter than your stock one. Fluttering at low RPM would occur because the blow of valve would not open at lower revs/boost, thus the air going back through the intake (as in going back against the turbines spinning direction, shopping the air), amplified by your FMIC and pod and wellah, flutter for you.

A blow of valve can help effect it, but it doesn't directly make the noise. Forgive me if it doesn't make sense, I need sleep :cheers:

More info:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...60&hl=stock

Edited by ReeceR

Ok I'm going to settle this once and for all..

The fluttering you here is the pressure created by the turbo changing directions and flowing back through the turbo when the throttle snaps shut. The factory BOV's have a weak spring to let through air at idle so that fluttering does not occur. This air recirculates from the cross over pipe and goes through a pipe which is realeased in front of the turbo again. Disconnect this pipe and vent the factory BOV to atmosphere and you will create a idling problem on the car. You will NOT have a true turbo flutter created through a aftermarket BOV. The only time it will create a noise like a flutter is if the spring is stuffed in the BOV or if the BOV is created to make a similar noise to a flutter.

It sounds to me like you BOV is way too tight, loosen it off and it will fix it. You cant hear a flutter through a air box so hence why you couldnt hear it before.

guys isnt the flutter the sound the air going back and forth between the throttle body as it snaps shut off throttle and the turbo, and the sound is heard once u get a pod, stock intake u cant hear it.

there is bovs that also make that noise or similar noises but they arent compressor surge they are just noise the bov makes instead of compressor surge

hence the reason of getting a bov.

most cars with aftermarket bovs will have to set how lose or tight they are, if they are too tight u will get compressor surge, too lose and u could leak boost depending on the bov and the boost level.

generally to get it right u need to find a setting somewhere inbetween where on low psi u get the flutter because its not enough pressure to open the bov generally below 7psi or so and that on higher boost over 10psi etc the bov opens and no compressor surge, no back pressure on the turbo it keeps velocity and u dont lag as much between gear changes.

i could be wrong but i dont think i am, would like to be corrected if am.

Edited by ODessA

If i'm not wrong, the flutter is commonly caused when the air goes back into your turbo fins.

Without a BOV installed, u'll get the flutter all the time. With a BOV, you will get both the flutter ( at lower RPMs ) and most of the time u'll hear the BOV sound that's IF it's an atmospheric BOV. If it's plumback BOV, u'll hear the flutter too.

Anyone care to input their knowledge? :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...