Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

I have done a bit of googling and dug around the site a bit and found some great information, however I'm specifically looking for details of GRP A spec GT-R's (either 32 33 or 34) as a preliminary to rebuilding my car.

Dont get me wrong, my car is clean and steetable, my plan was for my GTR to haul my carcass around daily for a few years before I join the 911 club, sure flame away if you wish, the point is I'll keep my skyline and rebuild it to some form of GRP A'ish specifications for tarmac rally and track use.

I'd like to keep the car regestered if possible (maybe a long shot) but the car will likely not see road use again, altho I would like it to be possible to bring it back to road leagal if required, so not an all out seam welded stripped out monster :D

I have worked as a fitter and turner in the motorsport field when I was younger and have a workshop at my disposal so some of the build I will be able to do myself.

the car may not come off the road for another 18-24 months yet, but it will ease the finantial pain of it all to be well prepared and have a plan on where I end up with the car. obviously it will need to meet CAMS regulations (which class's I have NFI at the moment)

So I ask of you any links, files or the like of GTR specifications for GRP A or similar class you may be able to help with. Indeed any words of wisdom or advise reguarding my plans as it isnt the usual GTR mod path.

any help or advise greatly appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128408-looking-for-gtr-group-a-specs/
Share on other sites

Just remember that the Group A cars are now over 16 years old...and terchnology has come a long way since then. Also, the Group A cars were built in line with rules and regulations...it doesnt sound like your car will be built to a class so you wont be limited by the mods the Grp A cars ran.

Mod away to your heart is content. Oh, and maybe consider buying a not so neat example if you are ust going to turn it into a weekend race car...no point wasting a good daily driver.

Have a look in the motorsport section there are some good threads about building a circuit GTR and regulations for gtr racing.

If CAMS is a priority for you there are only 2 classes a GTR is eligible for.

3e - production - standard cars, no mods except suspension and ecu. I have a 3e race car. no 3e series in Vic

3J - improved production - allow quite a few freedoms but the big issue is all turbo cars have to run restrictors. there is 1 3j GTR in NSW which has had some success with a lot of development, but it has a very hard time against the RX7s (much lighter and similar power)

well the grp A specs was just as much for a good read as ideas to implement with my build, I cirtainly wont be using dated technology.

now Duncan has me pondering what to do about CAMS...

hmmm

perhaps I'll forget about CAMS and just build it and let scrutineers decide on which class it falls into for events such as targa tassie and the dutton rally which i'm more interested in than season racing.

that said grp A is where the gtr came from so it makes sence to use the specs as a reference.

cheers

Doesn't the old Gibson Racing Team Engineer (some guy with a german sounding name) now run his own Performance Shop in Melbourne (Hyperdrive, Hypertec, Hypersomething....??)

I am certain he would know about the Group A specs.

That's Eric (forgot how to spell his surname), he used to work at Hypertech, now he's working at Kamikaze motors from what somebody posted on this forum. I could be wrong but never hurt to search this forum for posts.

well the grp A specs was just as much for a good read as ideas to implement with my build, I cirtainly wont be using dated technology.

now Duncan has me pondering what to do about CAMS...

hmmm

perhaps I'll forget about CAMS and just build it and let scrutineers decide on which class it falls into for events such as targa tassie and the dutton rally which i'm more interested in than season racing.

that said grp A is where the gtr came from so it makes sence to use the specs as a reference.

cheers

my advice, decide what you are going to do with the car first. Second, read the rules for that over and over again until you understand them and know them inside out, before you pick up the spanners.

you obviously need to be registered for Targa or Dutton rallies. Targa has strict rules on mods for modern competition, whereas Dutton is a "run-what-you-brung" sort of affair, but very expensive for a multi day Touring Road Event.

my advice, decide what you are going to do with the car first. Second, read the rules for that over and over again until you understand them and know them inside out, before you pick up the spanners.

you obviously need to be registered for Targa or Dutton rallies. Targa has strict rules on mods for modern competition, whereas Dutton is a "run-what-you-brung" sort of affair, but very expensive for a multi day Touring Road Event.

yes I cirtainly will be very carefull before doing anything major, my idea for the car is to enhance it in the spirit of the type of racing the GTR was designed for rathur than rice it up with bolt on mods

As I have a workshop available and having worked for hollinger and modena engineering in the past I plan to make quite a few of the parts myself.

That said I'm giving myself plenty of time before I actully do anything, and am considering doing a r32 gtst drift car in the interim to learn my way around the car before getting serious with the GTR, and because the spares I have left over can go into the gtst.

just need to work out how to justify a hoist to the tax man :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
    • 100% is gyprock, I agree. Slip of the keyboard. Haha! I left my indicator bulbs out to save a bit of weight.
×
×
  • Create New...