Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Paul, what makes you think the stock sidemount doesn't flow?

It has a full duct around it. There's not much blocking it behind.

How does your fmic flow? doy ou have a duct around it?

Applying the air takes the easiest path, wouldn't air flow around your cooler?

Also, it's blocked by the radiator and aircon radiator behind it.

PS: those who said that installing a new cooler does not increase power are wrong.

The stock cooler is simply a restriction to power. It is a bottleneck. it doens't flow enough. granted, cooling is also a problem.

Both of these problems are improved when fitting an r34 cooler.

Paul, what makes you think the stock sidemount doesn't flow?

It has a full duct around it. There's not much blocking it behind.

How does your fmic flow? doy ou have a duct around it?

Applying the air takes the easiest path, wouldn't air flow around your cooler?

Also, it's blocked by the radiator and aircon radiator behind it.

PS: those who said that installing a new cooler does not increase power are wrong.

The stock cooler is simply a restriction to power. It is a bottleneck. it doens't flow enough. granted, cooling is also a problem.

Both of these problems are improved when fitting an r34 cooler.

you just said in the same post, that its not restricted at all, and then that its a bottleneck, and is restrictive....

No Dezz you've misunderstood his post.

Any intercooler is a restriction to flow of air from the turbo to the engine, thats part of how they work. Say your engine is running at 10PSI boost, and you standard R33 intercooler restricts the flow by 3PSI. This means your turbo is actually producing 13PSI to get 10PSI at the engine.

By installing the R34 cooler, as it is bigger, its restriction is reduced, say to 2PSI. This means the engine is receiving 11PSI when the turbo is running at 13PSI. And therefore making more power.

The other way an intercooler is a restriction to airflow is to the ambient air that flows past it. The Stock SMIC, although they have a small frontall area for the air to flow through, have good ducting that forces the air the flow through the cooler fins, rather than around it.

Many aftermarket FMIC have crap ducting, so air flows around it rather than through it. In addition, the air then must flow through the radiator aswell at an increased temperature.

For your info replacing an R32/R33 cooler with an R34 or ARC SMIC will not be counted as an intake mod, as the dimension (roughly) and the mounting location hasn't been changed from standard.

This is what i plan to do with my R32, as i'm looking for only 180-200kw in the foreseeable future, and dont wish to have to get a new front bar and cut holes etc, and for ease of installation.

Cheers,

Rhett

After reading xRHETTx 's post it got me thinking..

the factory positioning of a smic is actually more logical and effective than the popular modification of the aftermarket location of a fmic.

so a nice upgrade is to exchange my r33 smic with an r34 smic..

but personally i'd like to safely run my stock turbo at a constant boost setting of 12psi

is it safe to do so with this r34 smic? or do i need to search the market for yet another higher quality smic of the same dimensions to fit that same side mount location

Many have run 12psi with no problems but some have had failures on less boost than this. Its debatable but 10psi is about the safest max, you will only gain marginal power going from 10psi to 12psi anyway 5-10rwkw, as the turbo is nearing the end of its efficency.

cheers

Edited by Munna1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...