Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I own an r33 gts-t and i just got a new set of adjustable cam gears on the way from just jap & being a 3rd year mechanic i know how they work and all but i'm trying to find out how much overlap can be obtained before piston to valve clearance is compromised. I appreciate all inputs but i'd rather get a response off people who can give advice off facts about r33 skylines rather than just enthusiats working on there interpretation of valve timing in general. Sorry if that sounds rude.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128425-valve-timing-overlap/
Share on other sites

Hey all

I own an r33 gts-t and i just got a new set of adjustable cam gears on the way from just jap & being a 3rd year mechanic i know how they work and all but i'm trying to find out how much overlap can be obtained before piston to valve clearance is compromised. I appreciate all inputs but i'd rather get a response off people who can give advice off facts about r33 skylines rather than just enthusiats working on there interpretation of valve timing in general. Sorry if that sounds rude.

cheers

around 8 degrees is the maximum that I would allow. You will not need anywhere near that though. You should only be aiming for about 2 degrees on the exhaust side. And if you have VCT on your 33 then the inlet cam gear is already adjustable and the aftermarket one will not fit.

i didnt know skylines had vct. i never even bothered to look. obviously they dont all have them because there normally sold in sets. when i get them i might just adjust it 2 degrees on each cam so theres 4 degrees extra overlap, take it for a spin then change to 3 degrees on each side and see which i prefer. i've already spent the money i might as well get as much power out of it as i can. Kadenacy affect is a great thing i think

I dont see how having less overlap can make the car go slower. if anything it'll just be rougher at idle. I have a series 1.5 so thats a real bumma. i'll see how its mounted maybe i can remove the vct on the inlet and put the adjustable ones on. i relise you'd know more than anyone 3lit3 it just seems weird thed sell them in sets specifically for my car. i'd much rather it be symetrical thats all

I dont see how having less overlap can make the car go slower. if anything it'll just be rougher at idle. I have a series 1.5 so thats a real bumma. i'll see how its mounted maybe i can remove the vct on the inlet and put the adjustable ones on. i relise you'd know more than anyone 3lit3 it just seems weird thed sell them in sets specifically for my car. i'd much rather it be symetrical thats all

i dont think you can just remove the VCT gear, it has its own oil supply and other things

Hey all

I own an r33 gts-t and i just got a new set of adjustable cam gears on the way from just jap & being a 3rd year mechanic i know how they work and all but i'm trying to find out how much overlap can be obtained before piston to valve clearance is compromised. I appreciate all inputs but i'd rather get a response off people who can give advice off facts about r33 skylines rather than just enthusiats working on there interpretation of valve timing in general. Sorry if that sounds rude.

cheers

They are a wast of time on a standard car.

im pretty sure the big VCT gear is the way of making any adjustments, and when i got my pfc tuned, my tuned was adjusting the timing on the zorst gear

i think you may be confused there. The cam angle sensor wich adjusts the timing is on the exhaust side but this adjusts ignition timing not the cam timing. the cam gear sits in behind this and isnt related to it.

All R33 GTS25-T have NVCS on the intake side

from winkipedia

Nissan Variable Cam Timing (commonly known as N-VCT, VCT or NVCS) is an automobile variable valve timing technology developed by Nissan. N-VCT varies the timing of the valves by rotating the cam shaft(s), valve lift and duration are NOT altered. The system is implemented with an electric solenoid which is controlled by the cars ECU. Some Nissan engines only have N-VCT on the inlet cam (such as the RB25DE/DET) while ot

hers have it on both the inlet and exhaust cams.

People have had mixed results with the standard turbo still in place. You only need to replace the exhaust cam gear and -3 to -4 seems to give the best results but not always as every engine is different.

cheers

All R33 GTS25-T have NVCS on the intake side

from winkipedia

Nissan Variable Cam Timing (commonly known as N-VCT, VCT or NVCS) is an automobile variable valve timing technology developed by Nissan. N-VCT varies the timing of the valves by rotating the cam shaft(s), valve lift and duration are NOT altered. The system is implemented with an electric solenoid which is controlled by the cars ECU. Some Nissan engines only have N-VCT on the inlet cam (such as the RB25DE/DET) while ot

hers have it on both the inlet and exhaust cams.

People have had mixed results with the standard turbo still in place. You only need to replace the exhaust cam gear and -3 to -4 seems to give the best results but not always as every engine is different.

cheers

cheers thanks heaps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...