Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Am posting this based on something cubes has discovered whilst reading some tuning material.

He found that some ecu's tend to have the AFRS (tuned in) vary based on what gear is used.

Ie: have a range of cells set to say 12.1 AFR and then when done and tuned in 4th its fine.

When a subsequent run is done in 3rd or 2nd the AFRS vary slightly and could be leaner, say 11.8

It is envisaged that the ecu is looking at the previous snapshot of sensors and deciding injection amounts but when this is happening in real time in low gears it happens a lot quicker and thus, the ECU typically lags. The outcome is that the AFRS to lend to sway a little as its always looking at the previous set of numbers instead of predictive load checking, ie: check thats its on WOT and predict the load and precalculate the injection coming up.

Ive had some thoughts regarding this and the only way I would agree with it would be to see a dyno plot of AFRS side by side with both gears and a show of the map tracer plots showing the same block of cells were hit. it sounds like to me its simply a case of some alternate cells are being hit in the lower gears, as load varies compared to 4th. The main source of comments was found on another forum here -> http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/...read.php?t=4109

Has anyone else heard similar comments or seen similar results? I've never checked my AFRS in other gears.

Cubes deserves all the credit, im just posting it up for discussion

:P

I have logs of a couple of runs from the R33GTST down the ¼ mile at WSID, they are posted up in the Teach Edge thread. I can’t see any real differences in A/F ratios between 2nd , 3rd or 4th gears. Keeping in mind that I do most of the high load/rpm tuning in 3rd gear on the road, 4th gear is simply too many kph.

:) cheers :)

yeah sorry i worded it wrong. meant to say richer. im not sure what ecu it was, but we were thinking the powerfc had the same problem and was possibly lagged in the lower gears. i havent seen any evidence, more just a thought

theoretically if the ECU was a bit on the slow side, in the first couple of gears where the rate of change of RPM is higher it could be slow in calculating what injector pulse to run at the next predicted RPM/load point.

i would have expected this to have been predicted by the ECU manufacturer though, and the processor speed upped enough to discount it. maybe i'm wrong?

I'd think the pfc is more than capable.. They really are an awesome no frills ecu powerful ecu.

Mad082, check out the link posted, more likely with maf, apparently. :P

Leaner conditions in 1st and 2nd are very common with many ECUs. I've seen it more pronounced on MAF based systems. an ECU calculates the next injector duty cycle on the previous engine cycle(s). When RPM is fast rising, it is behind. Some higher end aftermarked ECUs and some OEM ECUs try to compensate either by looking at the current gear or trying to predict from RPM rise rate. That's why tuning should be done in higher gears.

Yeah i think it is a MAP sensor ECU.

I think the ECU he is talking about is a Microtech.They need to be tuned in MATRIX mode to be most Effective on street cars.They USUALLY run off a LOAD MAP which is tuned in vacumm and PSI.They dont tune in Different RPMS unless in matrix mode.So i think that might be a problem.If you tune in matrix mode you will get rid of the problem.But the ecu only has a 16 x16 graph from what i remember.

Another Problem you might have is if you tune a car with a map sensor that has Multiple throttle bodys or BIG cams with low vacuum you will find it will change AFRS in different gears as well. To fix this problem you need to tune in a TPS x MAP screen which is usually found in the Settings page.

this isnt a problem with the ECUS its a problem with Who set it up and tuned it.

If you have a AIR FLOW METER ECU it wont have this problem to what i remember,Only map Sensor cars but they need to be tuned and setup correct to fix it.

Interesting topic. On a related note, it can also vary when in the same gear:

For example, when I first had my tune, it was showing a rich mixture as it comes onto boost (about 11.3) before settling to almost bang on 12. Took it elsewhere with the same tune, and this one showed the rich patch going to 11 before settling on about 11.7. Air intake temps were showing the same, the runs were both done in third, so the consistancy was there, just showing different results.

Edited by Thunderbolt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...