Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey boyz and girls,

Just wanna get an opinion on types of coolant to use in a GTR. Any particular brands that are good? what ratio mixture should be used?............just want to make sure that coolant types are not detrimental to coolant lines, seals, pumps etc...

Got a mate who recently had coolant changed and was using a 50/50 mixture but car had a syrong coolant smell after the drive................is that normal?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128476-which-type-of-coolant-to-use-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

Got a mate who recently had coolant changed and was using a 50/50 mixture but car had a syrong coolant smell after the drive................is that normal?

Cheers.

Smell because while ur mate was filling the radiator up he might spill some on the engine?

Anyway, i think the best is to use NISSAN genunie which available from most Nissan dealer.

redline coolant with inhibitor (pink in colour) with distilled water. good flush out to get rid of the glycol base from previous coolants + rust dirt general crap etc. the stuff works good with glycol, but better without it. or any good quality 50/50 glycol (the green stuff)

i currently have power steering fluid in my raditaor and it hasnt overheaded! (still not reccomending it!)

redline coolant with inhibitor (pink in colour) with distilled water. good flush out to get rid of the glycol base from previous coolants + rust dirt general crap etc. the stuff works good with glycol, but better without it. or any good quality 50/50 glycol (the green stuff)

i currently have power steering fluid in my raditaor and it hasnt overheaded! (still not reccomending it!)

Redline Water wetter is not recommended for winter used, only suitable for summer or track use. If you must use RL WW, pls mix at least 15% coolant and the rest distilled water.

Power steering fluid or ATF in radiator is a major no no. The viscosity of the fluid usually 7cSt or more will decrease the heat transfer rate of the medium (fluid) by hell of alot.

General guide

PSF or ATF ~ -50 to -70% decrease heat transfer

50/50 coolant/water ~ normal heat transfer

RL WW/100% water ~ 50% better heat transfer

i used 2L of genuine coolant from nissan to replace all in my GTR block , radiator and hoses. Make sure u use green coolant. and just use the genuine. if ur too cheap to use a $12.50 per Litre bottle of coolant. then ur prob too cheap to own a Skyline. its gonna be an expensive piece of work.

Redline Water wetter is not recommended for winter used, only suitable for summer or track use. If you must use RL WW, pls mix at least 15% coolant and the rest distilled water.

Power steering fluid or ATF in radiator is a major no no. The viscosity of the fluid usually 7cSt or more will decrease the heat transfer rate of the medium (fluid) by hell of alot.

General guide

PSF or ATF ~ -50 to -70% decrease heat transfer

50/50 coolant/water ~ normal heat transfer

RL WW/100% water ~ 50% better heat transfer

not a good idea to run power steerin fluid in ur coolant true. im not doing it by choice people. NEVER use power steering fluid in ur cooling system

i dont know hows its getting in there but it is. the mechanics trying to figure it out

i used 2L of genuine coolant from nissan to replace all in my GTR block , radiator and hoses. Make sure u use green coolant. and just use the genuine. if ur too cheap to use a $12.50 per Litre bottle of coolant. then ur prob too cheap to own a Skyline. its gonna be an expensive piece of work.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Just flushed the system and gone 50\50 Geniune Nissan green stuff and demineralised water..............only the best will do!

I checked out the Nissan stuff, I was actually suprised how well priced it was. Very similiar to that of good aftermarket gear.

I'm currently running the Nulon green. I did a little research in to what is required in a good coolant and it had good levels of the good stuff. :P

The nulon green stuff is definitely a good bang for buck coolant.

I prefer Nulon's Concentrate because you know you are getting the right ratio going in. Ie 2.5L for a 7L car.

The problem with premixed stuff is that you'd worry about water left in the block which causes dilution. You'd be suprised how much water stays in the block if you dont drain it out.. like a few litres!

I agree, Nulon's Green Concentrate at 20 bux for 2.5L is by far the best bang for your buck. 5 year protection too. Sweet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...