Polishes/wax

[Unix26]

If you ever purchase a polisher go for the Megs G220 RO they are a nice beginner unit, they are fool proof, may take longer than a rotary, but skill factor required is low. Dont be scared and go for it.

so I'm guessing it's like a buffer, do you think i could pick one up from Auto barn? and how much do they usually go for?

[R31Heaven]

Yeah it a buffer its light and a RO so cant do damge unlees you fall asleep while using it. Autobarn may be ablle to get it for you but they tend not to be to interested in Helping if its not something in the shop. They are $299 from the link below. Once you have learned to use it charge your mates to do their cars and get you money back

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/...action_polisher

[O.I.C Napster]

Can i also point out, if you are doing a 'paint correction' as such. Before you start you must remove all your waxes that is on the car first. Use a dishwashing liquid of some sort that will revove all the wax prior to your clay bar.

The preperation before your polishing is 95% of the finished product. If you dont clay the car correctly. Expect swirl marks. Another little trick is, get a plastic bag (coles/wollies etc) put your hand in the bag and rub over your paint work. If it feels gritty the car needs a clay. Trust me it works. Menzerna's range of polishes are fantastic polish.

We did a detail today on a Black Honda Euro. The bonnet shots are two passes with a Rotary Polisher, you'll notice the difference in one side of the bonnet, we polished half the bonnet so you get the idea on a real 'Paint Correction'. Here are some happy snaps below

Before:

Sunlight in scratches

Sunlight in polished part

Close up

Finished product

Notice the skyline in the bumper

Cheers Matt

Edited March 7, 2009 by O.I.C Napster

[Unix26]

are stock painted skylines like metallic silver clear coat? i want to know what paint mine is before i even buy polish and polish/cutting pads. is there a way to check with out even owning polish first?

[mosoto]

I have one of these supercheap buffs and was wondering if you'd use one on a good paint finish, over the Megs one linked by R31H above. I've used mine twice and successfully removed swirls and light scratches.

[R31Heaven]

The one you have pictured does not have much grunt and dont last long, put any force on them and they either stop or burn out, they are for basic laying down a Sealant or Wax and buffing up. You would not do any heavy correction with it.

[R31Heaven]

are stock painted skylines like metallic silver clear coat? i want to know what paint mine is before i even buy polish and polish/cutting pads. is there a way to check with out even owning polish first?

It will be Metalic Silver with Clear Coat. I am Detailing one in a week or two, I will post up some pics when done for you.

Edited March 8, 2009 by R31Heaven

[Unix26]

It will be Metalic Silver with Clear Coat. I am Detailing one in a week or two, I will post up some pics when done for you.

thanks that would help out a lot! I'm just waiting for pay day to buy some lambs wool mitts and microfiber rags, and some wax / polish products

[Unix26]

If your cars a light colour either Silver or white only use a sealant as a Wax will not make it any noticably better. With Megs polishes they dont last long 2-3 months if lucky. were somthing like Zaino Z2 ($48) or Durgloss 105 ($25) will give you 12 months protection. and to keep it shiney never use a DIY brush take a Bucket with Shampoo and a Megs Lambs wool mitt.

my car is silver, and i am making a detailing box, i know you have answered allot of my questions and i must be getting annoying ^^ but thanks again for your help,

so far i have

Megs smooth surface quick clay kit

Armor all microfiber glass cloth and some armor all car wash and sponge and stuff but i want to throw the car wash and sponge away and start fresh,

so i was wondering what car wash product do you suggest to go with my set and i need a lambs wool mitt is that just for washing it around and i still use a shammy to dry it?

and what sealant do you suggest i want to make this kit with out a buffer for the mean while, and is sealant rubbed on like wax after the polish?

[R31Heaven]

Ill keep this on the Cheap, Megs NXT or Gold Class or softwash Gel will do. With a Chamois dont use a synthetic one, buy a Microfibre Chamois Or waffle weave towel, but you wont get The Waffle weave out of your Supercheap or Autobarn. Do you want to buy online or go to your local Autobarn? as this will change my advise.

[Unix26]

Ill keep this on the Cheap, Megs NXT or Gold Class or softwash Gel will do. With a Chamois dont use a synthetic one, buy a Microfibre Chamois Or waffle weave towel, but you wont get The Waffle weave out of your Supercheap or Autobarn. Do you want to buy online or go to your local Autobarn? as this will change my advise.

well i really want to buy at my local auto barn ( burleigh ) later when i get more into it i might buy online.

[R31Heaven]

well i really want to buy at my local auto barn ( burleigh ) later when i get more into it i might buy online.

Ok My advise

1.Wash Megs Softwash Gel with Lambswool mitt Cost Mitt $18 Softwash Gel $12

2. Dry with Microfibre Chamois Cost $22

3. Claybar with Megs Clarbar & Lube $36

4. Polish with AutoGlym Super resin Polish this will clean and Fill in Swirls to a point, may need a couple of layers $26

5. Autoglym Extra Gloss Sealant 3 coats follow instrucrion. $31

Also get some 4 Microfibre Cloths to polish off the Resin & Sealant, and foan applicators for the Polish & Sealant

Edited March 9, 2009 by R31Heaven

[Unix26]

Ok My advise

1.Wash Megs Softwash Gel with Lambswool mitt Cost Mitt $18 Softwash Gel $12

2. Dry with Microfibre Chamois Cost $22

3. Claybar with Megs Clarbar & Lube $36

4. Polish with AutoGlym Super resin Polish this will clean and Fill in Swirls to a point, may need a couple of layers $26

5. Autoglym Extra Gloss Sealant 3 coats follow instrucrion. $31

thanks allot for your help =D i will buy those pay day! i will also need some microfiber cloths to wipe off the polish and gloss right? i i can just buy one of those 5 packs or something

[fat-lad]

best microfibers off the shelf with out going online are the megs ones, they come in a pack of 2 a red and yellow, bout 25 bucks, when buying microfibers take a new blank cd with you and wipe the cd, if it leaves marks on the cd it WILL mark your car!

ohhh dont forget after youve spent all this time making sure your paint is slick, go out and buy your self another bucket and start washing 2 bucket method, you will thank your self later!!!

hope ive helped

[Unix26]

okies my car is all done looks amazing, accept for a few spots you cant see unless you look at it on a angle ( like water damage or a bird bomb damage ) i could not get off with the polish, now one more question, is there any point of sealing it more than once, like i just put the protentant sealer on 20 mins ago should i do it again?

[R31Heaven]

okies my car is all done looks amazing, accept for a few spots you cant see unless you look at it on a angle ( like water damage or a bird bomb damage ) i could not get off with the polish, now one more question, is there any point of sealing it more than once, like i just put the protentant sealer on 20 mins ago should i do it again?

Yep chuck 3 layers of Sealamt on. Do 2 Today and then wash Tomorrow and 1 more, makes a big diffrence in look and durability, then Pics

Edited March 16, 2009 by R31Heaven

[alexajs]

Do they look like this (pic ~709) I used this (pic ~793) and these (pic ~801) does not remove it all though but is greatly reduced. Be warned the 105 is strong 'USE AT OWNER RISK'

I have used Meguiars, Mothers, Turtle Wax and Ployglaze products haven't tried Autoglym, 3M or other exotic products yet.

[Andrico]

OK, can someone clear up a few things for me?

correct me if I'm wrong:

1. I thought that polish takes away a tiny bit of the clear coat.. sort of like a really weak cut. Therefore if you polish everyday/week eventually, you will have no paint?

2. Likewise, I have thought that wax adds and seals up the clearcoat. So instead of taking a layer of and reavling fresh shiny paint, it adds to it. Therefore, you can wax, whenever the hell you feel like it.

3. How does clay go about taking the contaminents out of the paint? From a quick read of one of the links I was under the impression that it "sucks" or absorbs it.... What I'm saying is, will clay take any paint with it similiar to a cut/polish??? and will excessive use cause damage to the paint/clearcoat?

Hi there,

in relation to your queries, I was doing some of my own detailing work and you're pretty much correct with your queries. 1 - polish does take a little clear coat away over time, however it would take some pretty excessive polishing to make any difference over a long period of time. What im saying is, you pretty much have to burn through the paint to make any difference.

2 - a simple way to put it is, paint is applied as small particles or dots (when sprayed with a gun). when you polish, small dots are removed, the way wax works is - wax fills the small dots to make a smooth surface, however contaminants are still in the paint - thats why quick waxing only lasts for a week or 2.

3 - the best time i can suggest to anyone who wants their car to look good for a long period of time is.

- wash the car with luke warm water from a bucket (dont go to car lovers and use the brush - OOOh my god)

-dray etc

-clay bar everywhere - paint or clear coat is not removed

-wash and dry again (i prefer to remove any clay stuck on the paint with another wash)

-2 x coat of mcquire's $40 wax (best domestic wax)

if your not happy with result another coat should be fine.

I'm searching for a really deep wax from London, its apparently the best you can buy(if u can find it) and needs to be stored in the fridge.- believe it or not - its applied with your hands because the wax works with heat penetrated from your hands (tedious stuff i know, but is awesome. does anyone know the name of this stuff????

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[R31Heaven]

I'm searching for a really deep wax from London, its apparently the best you can buy(if u can find it) and needs to be stored in the fridge.- believe it or not - its applied with your hands because the wax works with heat penetrated from your hands (tedious stuff i know, but is awesome. does anyone know the name of this stuff????

-

I gather you talking about Zymol or Swissvax? if so they can both be bought in Aust Zymol waxes go from a couple of hundred dollars up to Thiry G's. Also there are other Waxes that are just as good for $100-$300. My own belief is that these crazy priced waxes are all wank factor.

Edited March 21, 2009 by R31Heaven

[SS8_Gohan]

I'm searching for a really deep wax from London, its apparently the best you can buy(if u can find it) and needs to be stored in the fridge.- believe it or not - its applied with your hands because the wax works with heat penetrated from your hands (tedious stuff i know, but is awesome. does anyone know the name of this stuff????

-

a lot (i'm not sure if ALL) paste waxes can be applied by hand.

Dodo waxes maybe UK based, have some rippers, some a pricey. Paul Dalton also has his own waxes, can't remember what they're called.

Clay when the paint surface feels a bit rough. Put your hand in a plastic bag (one of those freezer ones) after a good wash and run it along the paint, it will help you tell if you need to clay or not.

Or just clay when you want to prep it for a nice wax or sealant. Even if it feels smooth, you're best to clay if you want to lay some layers down of something

I've had Zymol Royale on the 34 and it does look and feel insane, but you'd have to have a bit of an eye for it to really tell the difference. (Royale is $18K AUD, but probably way more now due to the exchange rate)

OCW is the best quick spray wax, about $30 from final inspection.

And i'd take P21s paste wax any day over anything from Meguiars, etc... P21s is about $40-$50 i believe.