Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i still had a bottle of meguiars gold class left (abour 30% left, trying to use it all up) i find that gold class is really good at bringing the shine back but doesn't last long. as soon as i finish the bottle going to go get some FI products, can't wait to try the FI stuff.

that looks great mate!

what products did you end up using?

Ill post up pics of my skyline in a few weeks time

Ordered a Bosch GEX150turbo + FI's CAP range of polishes

Already got seal and claybars from other details

Will post up the results of a 2 stage machine polish on my 34 :)

That looks great! Gloss Black cars are always the most rewarding to detail .. you get a mirror all around once you're done thumbsup.gif

Congratulations on your results :)

What did you end up doing for the headlights?

also just noticed you live in VIC .. why not drop by the FI Store - damians great and will help you out with what you need .. or maybe you can get him to do the paint correction!

You seem to know your detail stuff very well & you are in WA, do you know (or recommand) any detailing shops here in WA?

I used to do some 1/2 arsed attempt at detailing but now can't be bothered anymore & would rather just pay some shop to do the work instead... :P

Currently I just wash it from time to time with some standard carwash.

What did you end up doing for the headlights?

i polished it with FI cap just as the car but the clouds were back on next morning... i polished them again and them sealed it with FI seal.. so far looks ok but i will keep an eye on them....

issue with the dashboard is still the same tho... :(

Hey Mayuri ..

Umm to be honest perth is kind of lacking in detailing services :(

I'm not too sure about the mobile detailers but as for the actual detailing workshops etc ..

I work at one in osborne park and I'm rather dissapointed in the procedures we use to clean the car .. we also use cheap low quality goods which I can't imagine are too good for the cars paintwork ..

For 200 bucks a car you'd expect a real good detail but its far from it

Most detailers in perth are around that standard too I assume, we cater more for the dealerships to just have their car looking food for a short amount of time so that they can sell the car

There also aren't many who I can find that do machine paint correction

I wouldn't send my car to most of the detailers in Perth, I'd rather do it from home where I know i'm using good quality products and taking all care possible to minimise swirl marks and other damage ..

If you want .. check out the mobile detailers around town, or where abouts are you located?

I don't mind doing the detailing on your car if you want?

PM me if you want me to do the work :)

Rawzz With the headlights fogging up its probably condensation from the inside causing it .. on my car the rubber seal has come loose since the front bumper is sagging with age and yeah water comes in from inside and gets the inside all foggy

I'm not too sure how to go about fix it .. But with mine it goes on/off .. at the moment its perfectly clear! :D

With the dashboard perhaps try using some window cleaning chemical? Make sure to buff it off well though cos with some window chemicals if you dont buff it off well enough when it gets cold it'll fog up like mad ..

short answer, yes. You will get more gloss and clarity. CAP Medium can definitely be used as a one-stepper, but you'd be crazy not to do a pass of Ultra fine, the results are pretty ridiculous. Obviously,best to team with FI black pad too.

  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys unfortunatly i have 20 year old paint but still in brillliant condition still shiny and nearly no scratches. however im having a small problem where on the back of the car where the exhaust blows its smoke from being so rich is going brown. what would be the best polish to polish up the car with and remove this.

i used to be a detailer but can no longer get my hands on the products i used to use. what products can i get my hands on that are good for this

Joel are you part of headcase car club?

but anyway My favourite polish is the CAP range - I think CAP medium from Final Inspections been recommended as the best hand polish

If not P21S Paint Cleansing lotion is another good cutting compound that is good to use by hand

For off the shelf products i used autoglym paint renovator once, that worked magic to restore my cars paint initially, was a pain to get off though but if its just for a small area thatll work well

If you worked at a detailer the products you probably used were autosmart brand?

I work at WA pro car detailers at Osb park and every detailer and the other detailer across the street uses that stuff too hahah .. im not a fan though

Swissvax! I have Best of show, Glacier, Shield, Crystal Rock. I also love Naviwax and Bowdens Own Body Wax.

I see alot of people mentioning FI's shop and products.

Have a look at waxit.com.au Antonio is on this forum i see and is an absolute pleasure to talk to and get help from with great prices on products.

Regards,

Mitch

  • 2 weeks later...

Swissvax! I have Best of show, Glacier, Shield, Crystal Rock. I also love Naviwax and Bowdens Own Body Wax.

I see alot of people mentioning FI's shop and products.

Have a look at waxit.com.au Antonio is on this forum i see and is an absolute pleasure to talk to and get help from with great prices on products.

Regards,

Mitch

Mitch, your the guy telling us that 70% wax content is BS and I totally agree with you and when I saw you do detailing for living, I understand you get that part. However, now I read your the guy buying 1000$ wax with the ''highest content of wax'' in a pot.. it doesnt make sens to me haha.

Mitch, your the guy telling us that 70% wax content is BS and I totally agree with you and when I saw you do detailing for living, I understand you get that part. However, now I read your the guy buying 1000$ wax with the ''highest content of wax'' in a pot.. it doesnt make sens to me haha.

Incorrect, what i was stating is dont get caught up in the cheaper waxes stating 70-100% carnauba wax because you will find they will be wax content not volume. See below

200g tub of wax

"massive 90% carnauba wax content"

the wax content is only 25% of the 200g meaning your canuaba wax contect is 90% of 50g.

giving you an actual carnauba by volume content of 45g less or 22.5% by volume.

Also there are varying grades of carnauba waxes, generally waxes use grade 1 and 2. then they also come in yellow and white or ivory. These all make a difference in price, durability, and quality.

If you are speaking of Crystal Rock

Crystal Rock is 76% BY VOLUME pure grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

means 76% of the wax by volume so 152g are grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

Does this make more sense?

Incorrect, what i was stating is dont get caught up in the cheaper waxes stating 70-100% carnauba wax because you will find they will be wax content not volume. See below

200g tub of wax

"massive 90% carnauba wax content"

the wax content is only 25% of the 200g meaning your canuaba wax contect is 90% of 50g.

giving you an actual carnauba by volume content of 45g less or 22.5% by volume.

Also there are varying grades of carnauba waxes, generally waxes use grade 1 and 2. then they also come in yellow and white or ivory. These all make a difference in price, durability, and quality.

If you are speaking of Crystal Rock

Crystal Rock is 76% BY VOLUME pure grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

means 76% of the wax by volume so 152g are grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

Does this make more sense?

Sure is! I'm a detailer myself. Have over 10-15 differents waxes. I totally understand your point. your post are good. keep it up.

Sure is! I'm a detailer myself. Have over 10-15 differents waxes. I totally understand your point. your post are good. keep it up.

Thanks, glad people are enjoying my information and hope they find it helpful.

I check this section of the forum atleast twice a day and any where I think something needs correcting or someone needs help I will try and give my view. In saying that I;m not always right and Antonio from waxit.com.au knows his stuff inside out also as I'm sure you do.

Regards,

Mitch

hi guys unfortunatly i have 20 year old paint but still in brillliant condition still shiny and nearly no scratches. however im having a small problem where on the back of the car where the exhaust blows its smoke from being so rich is going brown. what would be the best polish to polish up the car with and remove this.

i used to be a detailer but can no longer get my hands on the products i used to use. what products can i get my hands on that are good for this

Hey Luvpsi, I have a white R33 paintwork in pretty damn good condition and I constantly get asked how come my car doesn't have the typical 'staining' above the exhaust. What I use is Meguires deep crystal paintcleaner. Give this method a try (if the rest of the paint work is in great condition).

- wash the car to remove contaminants

- (with a microfiber or DA buffer) Apply a small amount of Meguires deep crystal paint cleaner and rub (not harshly) but firmly in a circular motion.

- Run over the affected area twice if need be

- After you've cleaned it (providing the stains are removed) give the affected areas a polish with your preferred product and then follow with a wax to seal the polish.

My advice is, consistent washing (once a week) will always prevent it from accumulating quicker. If the cars polished and waxed properly, this will aid in the ease of cleaning off the stains.

Hope this helps :thumbsup: let me know how you go.

Hey Luvpsi, I have a white R33 paintwork in pretty damn good condition and I constantly get asked how come my car doesn't have the typical 'staining' above the exhaust. What I use is Meguires deep crystal paintcleaner. Give this method a try (if the rest of the paint work is in great condition).

- wash the car to remove contaminants

- (with a microfiber or DA buffer) Apply a small amount of Meguires deep crystal paint cleaner and rub (not harshly) but firmly in a circular motion.

- Run over the affected area twice if need be

- After you've cleaned it (providing the stains are removed) give the affected areas a polish with your preferred product and then follow with a wax to seal the polish.

My advice is, consistent washing (once a week) will always prevent it from accumulating quicker. If the cars polished and waxed properly, this will aid in the ease of cleaning off the stains.

Hope this helps :thumbsup: let me know how you go.

My advice would be as above IF you have a polisher wouldnt use a microfibre to do it.

If you dont have one get a clay bar and do you whole car at the same time itll make a BIG difference, Waxit Claybar Kit , This will last 2 or 3 cars easily.

This will and shoudl remove the exhaust stains, To help prevent further contamination I would use , Cquartz , the 10mL will cover the rear bar, and wheels easily which I would reccomend doing.

Seems like a bit of money but I GUARANTEE youll look back in 3-4 months and go DAMN! glad I did that.

Regards,

Mitch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
    • WRXs are a pure pleb boring car these days. You need to get an STI to even get close to what a WRX used to be.
×
×
  • Create New...