Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Curious... Anyone used Autoglyms High Definition Pain Cleaner and/or High Definition Wax?

Reviews and videos seem alright but a first hand opinion from a fellow skyline enthusiast would be even better haha :thumbsup:

I went to autobarn pick up supplies... nearly died at the sight of the price. $60 for the Paint Cleaner $130 for the (150g) tub of HD Wax!!

I thought that was quite unreasonable and ebay backed me up - I can buy both products for $60-70 shipped from the UK ohmy.gif

I have used the Autoglym HD Paint Cleaner and the Bowden's Body Cleanser. The HD is good but the Bowden's is much better. Iron-X, followed by Bowden's Body Cleanser, followed by clay bar gives a fantastic finish.

I also use the HD wax. I think it's good, but gives a better finish if you put a UV protecting sealer down first.

Personally I would well and truely reccomend Bowdens Body Cleanser over the Autoglym found at www.bowdensown.com.au

and as for wax Ive used the HD, but I was in at Waxit speaking to Antonio on the weekend and he has reccomended I try the DP Max ax they have for sale at $27.99 yet to try it but I will soon!

Regards,

Mitch

I tried the bowden's after seeing one of your details. I tried it on a Leopard I did recently and I had fantastic results.

  • Like 1

thought this would be some good news to post for those in sydney looking to get their hands on Final Inspection

FI Sydney Coming Soon - Seven Hills

For all you poor FI fans in Sydney that have to purchase online, you will soon have;

- A very easy way to pick-up FI products,

- Speak to a dedicated, Authorised FI Retailer,

- A dedicated workshop for detailing services carried out by an Authorised FI Detailer

- Regular Detailing Clinics for FI product customers and a lot more.

in Sydney!

Yes, we hear you, it is about time.

But nothing good comes easily and quickly and old school FI customers will know that our products have trickled through slowly,

but with the highest quality standards and with a wait that is always worthwhile, we're sure you'll find we've found the right company with the right people to add to the Final Inspection family for Sydney-siders.

We will introduce you to the company shortly and may even organise some representatives from Head Office for a meet and greet very soon smile.gif

Edited by squareznboxez

hm in terms of pads for hand polish theres not too much option.

off the shelf I think the meguiar's foam ones are alright, pretty good price too.

If you're prepared to pay a bit more, could try Lake country hand applicator pads - orange or white should be good, depending how much cutting ability you need.

for a polish I haven't really been up to date with off the shelf stuff. My favourite was always the autoglym paint renovator though. could try meg's ultimate compound, it seems to be quite popular.

I believe it used to be P21S paint cleansing lotion that was known to be pretty good for hand polishing.

But you could use any cutting compound really - menzernas - depending how much cut you need.

I havn't really tried to get rid of anything major with a hand polish, but with enough effort you may see some decent results :)!

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

just wondering if anyone has trialed a product called FW1 waterless wash that apparantly puts down a wax aswell and should be set for about 6 weeks?

They're all scams. Did they tell you that supercars like ferrari's use it too and F1's? Because that's what they did to me and it actually worked :(

That is, got me buying a bottle haha. I use it quickly to clean little things but I'd rather buy Meguiars ultimate quick detailer or quick wax.

Edited by kylieyeah

This is what I use for prep/ hand polish & wax:

Wash - Duragloss (ph balanced, an literally very sudsy an lubricating, 2-3 capfulls per wash)

Clay - Clay magic blue ( lasts 5 times longer than mequires or mothers which break up quickly)

Polish - Autoglym SRP ( SRP is a great all in one, its a polish/paint cleaner that leaves a pretty durable synthetic layer of protection. Will remove light swirls, fine scratches & with a bit of work will clean up matted/dull hazy paint unless its completely gone)

Wax - P21's 100 (great pure wax for the money I reckon, so easy to apply & remove but longevity compared to synthetics these days is short. With good care 3-4 months. Better depth an shine for the time too)

you can wax on top of SRP but I think its unnecessary so most times if I really want a pure wax finish I'll use Mequires M205 or 105 for deeper marks/scratches/swirls etc that 205 can't remove.

Tyres/interior/plastics/rubber - 303 Aerospace ( regarded as the one, if not THE best out there!! It gives a matt to satin look without looking or feeling greasy, contains NO silicone an soaks in with repeated use giving protection from harmful U.V rays. Its a little expensive, but trust me it spreads a long way!!!)

  • 4 months later...

so i bought a polisher and had a practice on my work ute on the weekend..It was hard to get a great finish because the paint has so much orange peel, its just a cheap tradies ute after all.. but i think It came up ok considering it has barely ever been washed let alone waxed ..

DSC02849-1.jpg

DSC02851-1.jpg

DSC02855-1.jpg

DSC02847.jpg

DSC02846.jpg

haha I was wondering where this post was...2 years and 30+ cars since I bought that machine and its finally died...

this is the car that killed it.. i will probably buy another one it served me well...

before

DSC05833_zpsdaec8c19.jpg

half / halfDSC05849_zps4923461f.jpg

done :D936933_10200430773106912_913115262_n_zps

  • 3 weeks later...

just did a second coat of Duragloss 105 and 601 almost 6 months after the first application (due to running out of Aqua Wax to bring it back up again).

Fantastic stuff (inc the Aqua wax), seriously better than anything off the shelf like Megs / Mothers / Autoglym and costs about the same. It's surprising how a lot of the specialty stuff can compete in price (esp bought from Waxit or Car Care Products)

I used to use Megs Tech Wax 2.0, but it does not give the hard, lasting protection and shine that the two step Duragloss system does (with weekly top ups of Aqua Wax).

I also currently use 303 Aerospace Protectant on the exterior trims but have noticed it only lasts for about 3 weeks max. Will probably invest in some Nanolex Trim Rejuvenator when this bottle runs out, as my car sits outside 24/7.

I don't go all out with cloths and applicators - I use Turtle Wax foam applicators and their buffing cloths, and a generic microfibre noodle style wash mitt. I do however always do the two bucket system when hand washing.

crossposting from WT, but I haven't taken any close up of the paint yet.

It does look that good as in the pic, paint looks brand new , that's with a crappy ol Meguiars claybar that I had lying around, followed by a coat of Duragloss 601 paint prep, and a coat of 105 synthetic sealant / polish over the top. Lasts about 6 months or so with regular top ups with Aqua Wax quick detailer. Best sealant / wax I've used so far.

2vtd2mv.jpg

Well I finally did another coat of Collinite 845 on the wifes Mirage, thats outside 24/7 as well. Last one was done just before xmas, so 5+ months without any additional maintenance except the odd wash here and there

NXT 2.0 on this car would last 2-3 weeks max, and it costs almost double. Collinite also outlasted Jetseal 109 under the same conditions - did the bonnet half/half

  • 8 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

^^^ I like the chart. I had to give my car a good clean etc recently and this is what I did:

Wash

Cut & Polish - the paint was old and there was a layer of crap etc so it needed a good C&P

A few days later I washed it again and clayed it Then washed again

A week or two later I used Mothers polish and polished by hand

Very impressed with the results turned out really good

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...