Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, i waxed the car today. it came out ok. i wax it every 3 months but i've got a question.

what is the proper steps of detailing eg. 1- wash car & dry the car 2- use clay bar 3- polish using??? 4- wax using??? 5- sealant using??? and this is done every 3months or 6months???

post-43204-0-58414600-1305687721_thumb.jpg

post-43204-0-94474900-1305687748_thumb.jpg

Hi everyone, i waxed the car today. it came out ok. i wax it every 3 months but i've got a question.

what is the proper steps of detailing eg. 1- wash car & dry the car 2- use clay bar 3- polish using??? 4- wax using??? 5- sealant using??? and this is done every 3months or 6months???

1. Wash

2. Surface Prep

3. Clay (ONLY IF YOU NEED TO)

4. Polish

5. Protect

6. Maintain

You dont need to be using clay-bar every three months maybe once a year? or whenever the surface starts to feel rough (should feel smooth like glass). The length at which it will stay smooth to the touch is all dependant on where the car is parked etc.

Carnauba Waxes and sealants are different but offer the same thing, protection. Carnauba wax is natural, paint sealant is well synthetic (usually carnauba wax mixed with chemicals). Companies will label their product as a wax for your average Jo to walk in and go OK I need a wax and a polish when in fact he's actually buying a paint sealant and a polish. Read the back of some labels if you dont believe me, the majority that are labelled wax will say on the back it is infused with polymers etc to increase durability.

Damn! I wrote a massively detailed post on this thread .. it seems to have gone

Dani Boi has pretty much outlined it all though :)

But here's a more indepth one .. since ur cars so nice I'd take good good care of the paint

Firstly, you should be washing your paint once a week, just a simple wash and dry with a quick detailer or something .. shouldnt take more than 30-40 minutes :)

For more intensive details, this is how its done ..

1) Wash and dry

2) Clay Bar - this removes surface contaminants, giving you a smoother surface, and allows waxes/sealants to last longer and be applied easier imo

3) Wash and dry

4) Polish - if needed (By polish i mean a cutting compound) by either machine (if you have one) or by hand (if you've been working out for 10 years or more thumbsup.gif this is some hard work) this removes swirl marks and minor scratches in the surface and makes it shineeeeeeee

5) Wash and dry

6) Apply Sealant or Wax

The different types of sealants/waxes are as follows:

You can get fully synthetic sealants such as Final Inspection SEAL or SEAL STRONG which last 6 months to 2 years ... (depending on the product and the amount of layers you put on it and how well u maintain it). this gives the longest lasting protection.

Semi Synthetic waxes/sealants such as Meg's Tech Wax ... imo this lasts a good 2-3 months before i feel the urge to reapply

Pure carnauba waxes such as P21S waxes ... these are a bit expensive, but produce the best shine. however, its more difficult to apply from what i've heard.

7) After applying your wax/sealant of choice ... You should maintain it with weekly washes and if you so wish apply more wax (pure carnauba waxes only) or more sealant layers (if using FI products i dont know about other brands) .. semi synthetics such as megs tend to have cleaners in the wax which will remove old sealant/wax layers ... so rather pointless to try to layer this on top. You can also use a quick detailer instead of wax.

You will need to clay bar your car whenever the surface feels rough ... in my situation with my cars left outside a fair amount of the time, this takes about 6 months ... but thats with weekly washes also, if you dont maintain you're probably gonna need to do it more often!

Polishing with a cutting compound .. imo every year or two is fine depending on how badly you induce swirl marks .. which depends on how good ur wash procedure is!

each time you clay or polish you will remove most if not al of your wax and sealant and need to reapply!

If you want more detailed info on what products to use or wash procedures etc pm me :)

I have usually always used carnuba my cars, Mothers california gold to be exact, an oldie but a goody :thumbsup:

I decided to try a synthetic spray sealant for a change cause applying carnuba wax is a pain, and have noticed that dust seems to attract and stick to it alot..i never had this problem with the carnuba wax.

Is this normal or maybe just the product Im using. The bead is amazing, It does give a very nice silky finish and the finish is still there after washing but I literally had to scrub to get this dust buildup off in some places..Also after washing the dust doesnt buildup as bad again, its just after the intial application.

Any idea??

In my experiences spray waxes such as meguiars quick wax are really easy to use ...

I've never had problems with dust on my surfaces ..

Maybe you had some leftover wax or something on those spots and the dust stuck to it?

It seems a bit strange .. if your wax is difficult to remove maybe try clay barring the car?

Not a problem I've come across before man, maybe next time it happens take a few pictures and send it across?

  • 3 weeks later...

hi guys,

im bit of a noob and need some suggestion on detailing my car... since its got swirl marks i was thinking of using meguiars scratchX to get rid of them... then polish it with meguiars pure polish... and may be use carnuaba wax or sealant for protection... any suggestions??

and i have few questions....

1.do i need to wash the car after using scratchX before polishing.... do i have to do it straight away after scratchX or should i leave it overnight (i learned that swirl removing takes time)....??

2. should i leave the car overnight after polishing before waxing it or do i wax it straight after and do i have to wash the car in between??

3.any suggestions for good sealants?? is it the same thing as glaze??

any ideas and suggestions will be much appreciated..

cheers

rawz : okk In my opinion scratch X is useless as are most hand polishes in removing swirl marks, unless you have a TON of time, muscle, and infinite amounts of polish. the gains you get for the amount of time you spend is pretty crap.

also, scratch X is basically a polish/cutting compound, so i dont think theres any need to go over it with the pure polish.

in regards to carnauba/sealant

carnauba is harder to work with, and doesnt last as long or give as much protection, but is far more glossy

sealants are easier to apply, last ages, and give tons of protection, but arent as glossy, but there are tons of quick detailers etc you can put on top to improve the gloss of them

swirl removing doesnt take time to occur unless maybe you're using a "filling" compound which isnt very good, and after awhile the swirls will just come back anyway i dont have any experience with these kinds of products since in my mind they arent very good so i just went straight to real paint correction work.

Yes, after polishing you will need to wash the car to remove any dust/residue from the polish before waxing it.

you can wax the car straightaway after the polish

check out www.finalinspection.com.au - get Seal Strong or regular Seal depending on what you want and your budget

glazes are completely diferent to sealants, glazes i think just make your paint more shiney haha

if you want to remove swirl marks with a hand polish i recommend P21S hand polish, but it will be far more effective with a machine such as the bosch gex 150 turbo or a festool rotex

PM me if you need more info ... however I made a page on detailing .. ill post the link up in a sec

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365785-detailing-1101/page__p__5837865__hl__detailing+1101__fromsearch__1#entry5837865

hope that helps you mate, again PM me if you need more information or check out the finalinspection forums - i learnt most of what I know from there and work!

also just noticed you live in VIC .. why not drop by the FI Store - damians great and will help you out with what you need .. or maybe you can get him to do the paint correction!

that looks great mate!

what products did you end up using?

Ill post up pics of my skyline in a few weeks time

Ordered a Bosch GEX150turbo + FI's CAP range of polishes

Already got seal and claybars from other details

Will post up the results of a 2 stage machine polish on my 34 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...